The Fall of Charles Fort – October 1690
As one of the largest military installations in the country Charles Fort has been associated with some of the most momentous events in Irish history. The most significant of these include the Jacobite-Williamite War in 1690 and the Irish Civil War in 1922 – 1923.
As a military fortress Charles Fort is an outstanding example of star-shaped fort with five bastions. Built between 1688 and 1692, Charles Fort was designed by William Robinson, Architect of the Royal Hospital Kilmainham and Superintendent of all fortifications in Ireland. In his design of Charles Fort, Robinson was influenced by the work of the French Engineer, Sebastien de Vauban, who perfected this form of military architecture. These forts were the most effective form of defence during the age of cannon and musket fire.
At its height, there were 94 canons in Charles Fort in 1690 – a formidable deterrent for any attacker. Its walls are low and thick and are circa 12 metres wide. The fort is strong on its seaward side but the landward defences were never fully completed. This would contribute to its fall in the siege of 1690.
The succession of James II to the throne of England in 1685 ultimately lead to the War of the Two Kings. James’s refusal to accept the rights of parliament and his continued devotion to Catholicism was unacceptable to the majority of the English Lords. In 1689, Civil War broke out as King James landed in Kinsale in an attempt to regain the throne.
In 1690, the Williamite forces, under the joint command of John Churchill, Earl of Marlborough, and Ferdinand Wilhelm, Duke of Wurttemberg, arrived in Kinsale and attached both Charles Fort and James Fort. James Fort was besieged first but was forced to surrender when a barrel of gun-powder exploded, killing many of the garrison and destroying the main gate. After James Fort was captured, William’s army seized the defenders cannons and turned them on Charles Fort. They opened fire pinning down the defenders on the western side. The capture of James Fort made front page news on the London Gazette on the 16th October 1690.
Charles Fort had one great weakness in that, it was essentially, unfinished. The three landward facing bastions were only supposed to be temporary and were thus un-mortared. The masonry slipped along the face and flank of the Cockpit Bastion, which was described by the Jacobite engineers, as very weak. It was thus an obvious target for the attackers.
Churchill and Wurttemberg commanded 10,000 men. Williams’ army was a coalition of European forces which included, English, French Huguenots and Danish forces. The Jacobite Commander, Lieutenant Colonel Edward Scott, had close to 1,200 soldiers defending Charles Fort. Despite the odds against them, the defenders put up a fierce fight holding out for thirteen days. When seven Williamite warships appeared on the horizon, the defenders found themselves stretched to breaking point as the Williamite’s focused their efforts on the venerable eastern flank. From the high ground looking directly into the Fort, they positioned eight 24 pounder iron cannons and fired 60-80 cannonballs per hour for three days into that vulnerable position.
Eventually, the wall collapsed and the defenders were offered the choice of surrender or death. Facing over 5 to 1 odds and armed with obsolete weaponry, with many of the garrison unable to fight due to illness and battle wounds, the defenders had no choice but to submit. They were allowed to surrender under terms and to leave Charles Fort with their flags and weapons and march to Limerick where they continued to fight until the end of the war. Churchill and Wurttemberg took over commend of Charles Fort while Churchill appointed his brother Governor of Charles Fort and Kinsale.
News that Charles Fort had been captured arrived just as the London Gazette went to press for the 16th of October edition.
The Pirate Queen of Mayo’s Monuments
For the past year I have been working on a multi-team project to highlight Ireland’s unguided National Monuments in OPW care. There are approximately 790 of these monuments, dating from various periods, encompassing castles, tombs, abbeys, forts, and standing stones. Many of these different sites connect with each other through their historical context, within this extensive portfolio.
The monuments of County Mayo are an example of this historical connection, with many of them linked to the powerful families of Burke and O’Malley. Its castles and abbeys are forever connected because of their association with one woman. One woman who broke the mould, who kept fighting, and who has gone down in Irish legend as The Pirate Queen.
There are many names The Pirate Queen is known by today, but she is probably best known as Gráinne O’Máille (Grace O’Malley) or Granuaile. Three castles in Mayo are referred to by her name: Rockfleet Castle, Kildavnet Castle, and Clare Island Castle are also known as Granuaile’s Castles/Towers. Both Kildavnet and Clare Island Castle were built, in the 15th and 16th centuries, by the O’Malley family, a powerful Gaelic clan within Connaught. Rockfleet, a 15th/16th century tower, was owned by the Burke family, descendants of the Anglo-Norman de Burgos. It was this castle that became Gráinne’s base of piracy operations through her marriage to her second husband, Richard-an- Iarainn Burke.
Gráinne spent her childhood between the family castles of Belclare in Co. Galway, and Clare Island in Co. Mayo. It is likely that her education was delivered by the monks who lived in the abbey on Clare Island, an abbey of which the O’Malley’s were patrons. The original abbey is said to date back to the 13th century, while the church that exists on the island today dates to around the 15th century and contains the tomb of the O’Malley family. A plaque with the family motto ‘Terra Mariq Potens’ (Powerful by Land and Sea), sits beside a canopied tomb, believed to be the burial place of Gráinne O’Máille herself. Today, the church contains some of the finest medieval frescoes in Ireland.
Gráinne returned home to Clare Island after the murder of her first husband, Dónal O’Flaherty, by a rival clan in 1565. It was then that she established her fleet of three galleys and an army of 200 men. This army was partially made up of O’Flaherty men, who followed her leadership after her husband’s death. Such loyalty was a testament to her prowess as a leader, as well as her tenacity; something which was displayed from a young age. Wanting to join her father on a voyage to Spain, Gráinne cut her hair like a boy, earning her the nickname Gráinne Mhaol (Grace the Bald).
The castle on Clare Island was situated near the harbour, making it the perfect place for Gráinne to begin her career as a ‘sea merchant’. The castle is three storeys tall, with the main living room likely situated on the first floor, and there is evidence that gun-loops existed which are now blocked up. A parapet walk is situated along the top of the north and south walls, a typical security feature of castles from the medieval period.
Gráinne was strategic in where she operated her fleets from, and her second marriage to Richard-an-Iarainn Burke was one driven by material convenience. She wanted access to his castle at Rockfleet, ideally located on a quiet inlet of Clew Bay, not too far from the O’Malley Kildavnet Castle overlooking the Achill Sound. Both castles are four storeys high, with stunning views over the surrounding water and land, perfect for observing oncoming attacks. It was known that Gráinne launched attacks on trading ships from Galway during her time at Rockfleet, leading to an attempted siege of the castle in 1579 by Captain William Martin.
The Captain very nearly became Gráinne’s captive.
Gráinne and Richard agreed to a trial marriage of a year, with folklore claiming that after the year was up Gráinne locked Richard out of Rockfleet Castle and demanded a divorce. This is unlikely given that the couple were married right up to his death in 1584.
It was after Richard’s death that life became increasingly difficult for Gráinne in the form of newly appointed Governor of Connaught, Richard Bingham; whose sights became set on the fearsome queen of the sea. After enduring imprisonment in Dublin Castle, the capture of her youngest son, and the confiscation and destruction of her fleet and lands over a number of years, Gráinne took a stand and appealed directly to Queen Elizabeth I to end Bingham’s vendetta. They met in 1593, with the Queen granting Gráinne’s return to the sea and rebuilding of her fleet, believing the Pirate Queen would be fighting the Queen’s cause on the waters. Gráinne now had a fleet of three galleys
capable of carrying 300 men each.
It is said that Gráinne O’Máille died in 1603 at Rockfleet Castle, and now rests on Clare Island. Her strength and her fierce nature did not go unnoticed by the men she dealt with throughout her life. Sir Henry Sidney (English Lord Deputy) stated that she was the most ‘notorious woman in all the coasts of Ireland’, while Sir Nicholas Malby (Governor of Connaught) claimed ‘she thinketh herself to be no small lady’. Gráinne lived an adventurous and vivid life, and her monuments in County Mayo reflect the larger than life character of this extraordinary woman.
More information on these unguided monuments in Mayo can be found here
Sources:
- Chambers, Anne. Ireland’s Pirate Queen: the true story of Grace O’Malley, 2003.
- Dib.ie/biography – contributed by Emmet O’Byrne
- Harbison, Peter. Guide to National and Historic Monuments of Ireland, 1992.
- maps.arcgis.com – Historic Environment Viewer
- Tuatha.ie
A day in the life of the Executive Head Chef to the President at Áras an Uachtaráin
Tucked away, almost hidden within the serene surroundings of the Phoenix Park, Dublin lies Áras an Uachtaráin, a national historical landmark and the official residence of the President of Ireland. Under the care of the Office of Public Works, is an elegant building steeped in rich endless history, diplomacy, and ceremonial grace. Behind its pristine white façade, works a dedicated team, each member playing a vital role in maintaining the high standards expected of the President’s household. Among them is the Executive Head Chef (EHC), whose role blends creativity, precision, and diplomacy on a daily basis.
The EHC works in unison with the Service Manager, Bernadette Carroll, the Head Chef Suzanne O’ Donohoe, the House Manager Dōnal Mc Coy, Chefs and the Household Assistants.
It is an early start for the Executive Head Chef and her team, at times when most of the country is still asleep! The lights in Áras an Uachtaráin’s kitchen flicker on as the day’s busy schedule begins with a review of the day’s planned events. This schedule is shaped not only by regular meals for the President and staff, but by official engagements, State dinners, working lunches, visiting groups & Diplomatic Receptions. Each demanding meticulous attention to detail.
Menus are never static. While guided by the seasons, they are constantly adapted based on the availability of fresh, local ingredients, the dietary requirements of guests, and any last-minute changes to the President’s agenda.
Trusted Irish suppliers provide organic vegetables, along with the produce provided by the Áras gardens, fresh fish from coastal waters, lamb and beef raised on this island’s green pastures, all of which are selected and approved. by both the EHC and the Head Chef, Suzanne O’ Donohoe.
The first meal of the day begins with breakfast service, an intimate yet understated affair. The options are endless: a hearty traditional Irish breakfast or perhaps a lighter choice of poached eggs, grilled tomatoes, and soda bread. Maybe even some homemade porridge or granola with fresh berries. Whatever the President decides upon, everything is prepared from scratch, with a key emphasis on presentation, flavour and freshness.
As the morning continues, the kitchen is filled with the comforting aromas of fresh baked brown bread, meat or vegetables roasting, and the sounds of a lot of kitchen utensils in use! The Head Chef personally inspects every plate before it leaves the kitchen, ensuring that it not only meets the highest standards of nutrition and presentation, but also offers a moment of quiet pleasure.
By mid-morning, attention shifts to formal events. If a visiting head of state, ambassador, or a dignitary are scheduled for lunch or dinner, the EHC will meet with the President’s personnel and protocol staff to review every detail. Everything from menus, guest preferences and cultural sensitivities to wine pairings and timings are considered.
Culinary diplomacy plays a crucial role in these meals. Menus are planned to reflect and promote Irish heritage and Irish producers, while offering a contemporary twist. An example of such a menu could be, a starter of Burren smoked salmon paired with a carpaccio of pickled garden beetroot, followed by a rack of Wicklow lamb with wild garlic mash, and finishing with an apple tart made using the Áras garden heritage Irish apples.
Once menus are confirmed, the EHC meets with the chefs to decide on garnishes and presentation. ‘Mise en place’ ensues. Every sauce is started from base stocks. Every herb is finely chopped and each loaf of bread is baked fresh. In this kitchen, precision is not a preference, it is paramount.
At noon, lunch for the President is served. Depending on the day’s agenda, it may be a solitary meal, a working lunch with Ministers, or a formal gathering in the State Dining Room. For high-level occasions the EHC is present, ensuring every plate meets the highest standards, and adding final garnishes with precision
and care.
Some days the midday window becomes a time for creative exploration, testing new recipes or refining old ones into potential new staples. Innovation is always balanced with respect for Irish culinary traditions.
Afternoons are quieter in terms of service, but not in responsibility. The EHC uses this time for team meetings, mentoring new chefs, and liaising with the Head Chef in relation to garden produce. Áras an Uachtaráin can proudly boast its own organic walled kitchen garden, which is an essential part of its sustainability ethos.
Then comes the essential but the not so glamorous side paperwork: stocktaking, collection of invoices, preparation of accounts for payment, and ensuring the kitchen complies with stringent hygiene, allergen and safety protocols.
Occasionally, the President hosts afternoon teas or receptions, calling for the refined artistry of pastries and canapés. From delicate, bite size savoury morsels to cakes and pastries. The EHC ensures flavours are balanced and textures tailored to modern tastes.
State dinners are the pinnacle of all the chef’s day. Though service typically begins around 7p.m., preparations are set in motion, days and hours earlier. Tables are laid with precision, every place setting pristine, and each course timed down to the second. The EHC leads the plating line, coordinating closely with Bernadette, the Service Manager, to ensure seamless synchronicity.
Meals are typically four courses, designed with a narrative: from starter to dessert, each element reflecting Ireland’s culinary identity. The EHC must be vigilant, ensuring no guest is left waiting and each plate upholds the exacting standards of the President’s table.
Following a state dinner, the kitchen team debriefs, and cleans meticulously, leaving the kitchen ready for the next day. By 11p.m., the lights dim and the doors close, only for the process to start again in a few hours.
The Executive Head Chef at Áras an Uachtaráin occupies a unique role as a custodian of national identity expressed not through words but through food. In every plate served, there is a quiet diplomacy at play, a story of Ireland told through taste.
The demands are high; the pace relentless, it is hard work but very rewarding!
Barryscourt Castle Reopening
Barryscourt Castle, one of Ireland’s most significant and finest surviving medieval tower houses, reopened its doors in April 2025 following a transformative conservation project led by the Office of Public Works (OPW). Officially unveiled on April 24th by An
Taoiseach Micheál Martin, the castle promises to become a cornerstone of Cork’s cultural tourism, blending centuries of history with a modern visitor experience.
Originally constructed between 1392 and 1420, Barryscourt Castle
was once the seat of the renowned Anglo-Norman Barry family, who dominated the region for centuries. Its well-preserved structure—including a striking tower house, intact bawn walls,
and historic gardens—offers a rare glimpse into Ireland’s feudal past. The castle played a key role in regional conflicts and stands
as a powerful symbol of Norman and Gaelic Irish heritage.
An inscription over one of the fireplaces reads: “In 1588, David Barry and Eleanor Roche made me.” This ties directly to the
castle’s 16th-century restoration and serves as a poignant reminder of its longstanding historical presence. As Brendan Gleeson, foreperson with the OPW National Monuments team, notes: “It’s almost like the building’s voice is still speaking to us.”
The ground floor of the tower house even contains a dungeon, where prisoners were dropped through a dramatic ‘drophole’
from the second floor—a powerful testament to the castle’s defensive past. Closed to the public since 2016 due to structural concerns, Barryscourt Castle has now undergone meticulous and
significant conservation efforts, extending over most of the past decade. These works were carefully designed to preserve the historic fabric while improving the visitor experience and modernising the castle’s facilities.
John Geraghty, Architect with the OPW, said:
“ These include a comprehensive programme of conservation works, fabric repairs and a complete Mechanical and Electrical upgrade— undertaken by the OPW Mechanical and Electrical team. The conservation of Barryscourt is also a credit to the skill and commitment of the National Monuments Mallow District Works Team—some of whom were involved in the original restoration of the castle.”
To protect the site’s biodiversity, ecological consultants were also
engaged to ensure that the work did not harm important bat maternity roosts present at the castle.
Master craftsperson Pearse Kearney, an external craftsman who specialises in bronze windows and leadlights, was first brought onto the project in 2001. His work involved restoring the castle’s extremely narrow windows using traditional methods, creating diamond-shaped quarries of glass set in lattices of lead, surrounded by soldered, galvanised steel. These careful interventions show the utmost respect for the original structure.
The conservation project involved the expertise of highly skilled traditional tradespeople—masons, stonecutters, carpenters—whose painstaking efforts exemplify the OPW’s commitment to the preservation of Ireland’s built heritage. The project included critical structural repairs, a full mechanical and electrical upgrade, and landscape restoration, ensuring Barryscourt Castle remains a centrepiece of Cork’s heritage tourism offering.
As Brendan Gleeson explains, “ We’ve done quite an extensive
mechanical and electrical project within the building. It opens up the building to many uses in the future.”
The castle has been sufficiently upgraded so that it can enjoy practical use in the years to come, with facilities that support guided tours and cultural programming. Showcasing this,
historians Dr. Jane Fenlon and Dr. Danielle O Donovan prepared a new interpretative exhibition for Barryscourt comprising text and illustrations. Jurga Rakauskaite-Larkin, OPW prepared and
executed designs for the new Exhibition under the guidance and direction of Sabrina Commins and Des Lowry, National Monuments.
Visitors can now explore the ground floor of the Castle and Tower House, with guided tours available for the upper floors. The beautifully restored orchard will also be accessible, offering an atmospheric setting for cultural and educational events. To celebrate the reopening, admission will be free for the 2025 season. Throughout the season, a variety of heritage talks, guided walks, and special events will take place.
Festivities began with a very wellattended festival of history and music which took place in mid-June. The event, which featured renowned musicians and insightful talks on Ireland’s cultural
heritage, was a fitting celebration to promote the reopening of the site.
At the official reopening, Taoiseach Micheál Martin spoke of the castle’s cultural and historical significance: “As a proud Cork native, I am delighted to see Barryscourt Castle, a landmark of
our county’s rich history, conserved to its former glory. This castle holds a special place in Cork’s heritage, and its reopening is a moment of pride for the region. The OPW’s investment ensures that future generations can experience and appreciate the fascinating story of Barryscourt. Beyond its historical significance, this project will also enhance tourism and cultural life in Cork, drawing visitors from across Ireland and beyond, and providing
lasting benefits to the area.”
Minister of State for the OPW, Kevin Moran, added: “Barryscourt Castle is one of the finest examples of a late medieval Irish tower
house, and the conservation work undertaken by the OPW ensures its legacy for future generations. The meticulous works, led by our expert teams, not only safeguard the castle’s fabric but also enhance the visitor experience, allowing people to explore this unique site in an engaging and immersive way.”
Barryscourt Castle’s reopening stands as a proud example of the OPW’s broader mission to care for Ireland’s rich cultural assets. The OPW currently maintains almost 1,000 National Monuments and historic buildings at 780 sites throughout the country. Each restoration enlists expert tradespeople and traditional techniques
to preserve the unique spirit of these monuments. With Barryscourt Castle brought back to life, the OPW reaffirms its
deep commitment to the conservation of Irish heritage – ensuring these treasures endure for generations to come.
The Rich Heritage of Co. Clare
Ennis Friary and Scattery Island are the only two guided OPW sites in county Clare (to date).
Situated in a county with such a rich heritage our guides are regularly questioned about other sites visitors encounter while traveling through the county. Quin Friary and Clare Abbey regularly feature here in Ennis and our guides over the years have compiled a brief handout to inform those wishing to learn more on these nearby sites. A service I believe many of our colleagues
around the country also provide, giving information on sites other than their own.
In conjunction with the Visitor Services 2024 project to promote the unguided sites within the OPW portfolio, the Ennis Friary guide team undertook a project to discover and promote a selection of our Clare unguided sites. Twelve were chosen to display some of the variety of our built and social heritage. Many of the sites have a link to the O’Brien clan, former kings of Thomond and founders of Ennis Friary, and thus a link to our
own site. This research is kept on file in hard copy at reception for our guides and visitors and is available through our social media for all to access.
During the 2024 season, the Ennis Friary Guides embarked on an exciting journey to uncover some of County Clare’s most extraordinary, but often overlooked, historic gems. Starting as a bi-monthly Facebook campaign, our goals included raising public awareness of Clare’s many historic sites, expanding our own online community, and inspiring visits to Ennis Friary itself.
Throughout the season, we researched and visited sites spanning from the Stone Age to the Medieval period, sharing insights on structures such as portal tombs, ring forts, abbeys and castles. One thing we hadn’t anticipated was how deeply the research would impact us. As a team, we’ve shared quiet moments, excitedly recounting the discoveries we’ve made about the places
we’ve chosen to explore. We’ve shared stories that bring Clare’s rich history to life, such as:
– The fierce, bloody battle fought between two opposing O’Brien
factions at Clare Abbey
– The ancient inauguration site of Magh Adhair were the O’Brien Kings of old dramatically chose to perch atop the tomb of a mighty Firbolg warrior
– Kilnaboy Church, a site of sacred pilgrimage once believed to house a relic of the true cross
– And captivating discussions on the breathtaking medieval stone carvings that still stand proudly at some of these historic heritage sites today!
With the Ennis Friary’s Guides’ shared passion, we haven’t only shared Clare’s wonders with others through social media, we’ve also deepened our own appreciation and love for this beautiful
county we call home.
This social media campaign has culminated in the “Unmanned Sites of County Clare” series, now accessible on the Ennis Friary Blog. With Ennis Friary closing for the winter season, we hope
to encourage our followers and history enthusiasts to explore these historic sites in person and through our digital content, enhancing their connection and appreciation to Clare’s historical past.
To find out more about the Unmanned Historic Sites of County Clare please see https://ennisfriary.wordpress.
com/2024/10/08/unmanned-historicsites-
of-co-clare/ for further details.
A day in the life Focal lenár nOifigeach Gaeilge
Dia duit, or should that be Dia dhuit? The former is correct when writing and the latter when speaking. Another one of the many little quirks that adds to the richness of the Irish language (Saibhreas na Teanga).
Hello, is mise Liam and I am delighted to be the new Irish language officer with the Office of Public Works. I joined the civil service relatively late in life but was very fortunate to land at the ‘Board’. I started as an Executive Officer with National Historic Properties before joining the Conservation Architects as a Higher Executive Officer. I then saw the advert for Irish language officer, applied, was successful and now I work with the Policy Unit. Each role has suited me greatly because I have a keen interest in history and culture.
I am also a late-comer to the Irish language. When young, there were no Gaelscoileanna in my locality. There was no Irish at home but my parents were always sympathetic towards the language. I was twice packed off to the Gaeltacht and did not particularly enjoy the experience, or so I thought. I achieved a Grade C in ordinary Irish at Leaving Cert. I then became an apprentice and drifted from the language but something always kept me interested. I was in my mid-30s when the flame rekindled. I started attending conversation groups, listening to the radio and reading voraciously. I developed a network of like-minded friends and through that improved my fluency.
My main role is the promotion of An Ghaeilge within the organisation and advising on compliance with the Official
Languages Act 2003 and 2021. There have been recent developments in this area that mean that we in the OPW
have increased legal responsibilities when it comes to Irish and its role in our work. My role is to guide and assist staff to ensure that the Office meets its obligations.
In addition to the legal compliance aspect of my work, it’s also important for me to promote the recreational activities available in Irish. This page Irish Language Tour at Dublin Castle.
Some initiatives that are proving successful are:–‘Lón le Gaeilge’– going from strength to strength.A monthly on-line get-together in a relaxed environment where people can practice their cúpla focal in a supportive environment.
– Irish language tours – In addition to OPW sites in Gaeltacht areas, Irish language tours are now available at many heritage sites including Rock of Cashel, Dublin Castle, Casino Marino, Kilmainham Gaol, Pearse Museum, Royal Hospital Kilmainham,Custom House Visitor Centre, Kilkenny Castle, Emo Court and others.
– Staff Irish language courses – The numbers of staff availing of Onelearning Irish courses is increasing each year. These are of great benefit to team members and are completely free of charge.
– OPW representation – We introduced a popular Seastán Gaeilge (Irish stand) at this year’s Ploughing Championships, we were represented at An tOireachtas in Killarney (the annual language and culture event) and we are now advising on plans for the development of a Gaeltacht Quarter in Dublin’s south city centre. OPW is actively working with many of the Irish language promotion bodies to help raise the profile of the Irish language.
The Official Languages Act was introduced in 2003 and it gave legal status to the Irish language. The primary objective of the Act was to ensure improved provision of public services through the Irish language. The Act was strengthened when amended in 2021. As a government agency, the OPW must comply with all requirements of the Act. Oifig an Choimisinéara Teanga (OCT) is the Language Commissioner’s Office, an independent statutory office operating as an ombudsman service and as a complianceagency. I am the contact person between the OPW and OCT and I am pleased to say that we have established a good working relationship with the team at the Commissioner’s office.
If a breach of the Act is reported, OCT will open a case and contact us. I will liaise with them to remedy the breach and rectify the problem. In order to do this I require the cooperation of the OPW staff. I am absolutely delighted with the co-operation and buy-in that I have witnessed so far. Thank you all! The main areas of complaint relate to non-compliantsignage, lack of Irish language information leaflets/publications and Irish language communications answered in English. These
are all easily rectified and once a breach is identified we all learn from it. The OPW is making great progress in meeting our requirements under the Act.
In summary, tá a lán déanta ach tá níos mó le deanamh ( a lot is done but there is more to do). If I can be of assistance to anyone please do not hesitate to make contact. The easiest way is via gaeilge@opw.ie Tá mé ag súil go mór le cloisint uait. Ádh mór!
Up in Arms: Heraldry in a Medieval Church
The status of St Audoen’s Church as one of the oldest buildings in continuous use anywhere in Ireland offers an opportunity for the visitor to find relics of our shared past which are well-preserved and still in their original surroundings. This Dublin City parish church’s association with Ireland’s ruling elite of the Norman, Tudor and Stuart eras means that many of those relics bear witness to the principle concerns of that ruling class. In memorialising the dead within St Audoen’s Church they aspired to leave an imposing and lasting reminder of their prestige when alive, and the use of heraldry was central to this.
Coats of arms have ancient origins, going back to the need for fighters on the battlefield to identify each other, and the ‘coat’ was initially just a coloured cloak worn over armour. The Normans were the first to develop a formal code of heraldry and by the 12th century, when St Audoen’s Church was built, many Norman lords had their own distinctive coat of arms. Gradually, heraldry became more of a status symbol for the nobility than a martial necessity, and the heraldic devices came to denote social rank and particular family traits or achievements. In the reign of King Henry V (1413-22) the use of heraldic arms without royal permission was outlawed, and in the 16th century the role of ‘Ulster King of Arms’ was established to regulate the design and granting of arms in Ireland, now succeeded within the Republic of Ireland by the office of Chief Herald of Ireland.
Each component of the coat of arms has a specific name and significance; the terms ‘dexter’ and ‘sinister’ refer to the right and left sides of the arms, but as seen from the point of view of the person holding the shield rather than of the observer. Over time, the central shield of a family’s arms was often divided into halves or quarters to incorporate the arms of a notable maternal family line. The inclusion and the style of a helmet above the shield also had a symbolic interpretation, as did each of the colours used in the design. A motto representing the values or qualities of the family was sometimes added on a banner beneath the shield, usually in Latin, French or Gaelic.
Those arms granted to English and Anglo-Irish lords could officially only be passed on to the eldest male heir. The transfer of these arms was a highly ritualised affair carried out by the Ulster King of Arms during the funeral of the deceased. The National Library of Ireland holds a collection of bound volumes from the ‘Ulster’s Office’ which detail these proceedings all the way back to the 16th century. These volumes were intended simply to keep a heraldic record of who was legally permitted to use arms, but they have become an invaluable source for genealogical research, not least in relation to the many elaborate funerals held at St Audoen’s Church in the 16th and 17th centuries.
While waiting to inherit a coat of arms, the designated heir was allowed to use the arms with the addition of a stripe (or ‘label’) across the top. Younger sons, who were unlikely to inherit, often used a version with additional symbols representing their place in the family pecking order. For example, a crescent represented the second son, a star the third son, a bird the fourth son and a ring the fifth son. A diamond-shaped ‘lozenge’ coat of arms generally represented the unmarried daughter of a family patriarch. The Ussher family – one of medieval Dublin’s leading families – provides a good example of the evolution of variant coats of arms through the generations. Whilst only one living person was allowed to use a coat of arms of English origin, by contrast coats of arms for Gaelic Irish clans were granted collectively, meaning that any family member could use them.
So, what can St Audoen’s Church tell us about the use of heraldry in Ireland during this period?
Although parts of the site have fallen into ruin at various stages of its eight-century history, the highly ornate Stuart-era memorials to the Sparke-Brice and Duffe families are wonderfully preserved in spite of their delicate plaster construction. In monuments overflowing with symbolic emblems it is the coats of arms which are placed at the pinnacle of each, representing the pride these parishioners felt about their lineage. And while any pigments and inscriptions have long-since faded away, these carefully sculpted arms help us to confirm who the memorials were built in memory of.
Memorials of a very similar design to the above were erected within St Audoen’s Church in memory of the families of Alderman Edmond Malone and Mayor Nicholas Weston, but exposure to the elements has left almost no surviving trace. An earlier generation of the Malones were memorialised in a smaller, though still highly intricate, wall panel which, due to its construction from stone, has lasted somewhat longer.
Another stone panel from this era on display inside the visitor centre is linked to Mayor Christopher SeÞgrave, who died in 1589, but it has not fared so well. The oldest identifiable coat of arms in the church is the simple stone tablet in a window recess next the the altar, still used for worship. It depicts the Duffe family arms with the letters ‘T D’.
This is believed to memorialise Thady Duffe, who was Mayor of Dublin in 1548. His name derives from an ancestor, Tadhg Dubh O’Farrell, from present-day County Longford, and in fact the Duffe and O’Farrell arms are identical.
Less grandiose were the ‘ledger’ tombstones which were set into the floor of the church. Fragments of up to 100 of these ledger stones can still be found around the site, but due to the wear and tear of centuries of footsteps only 23 remain even partially legible. Nevertheless, a handful of these retain distinct coats of arms at the centre of their design.
Although styles changed and heraldry in tombstones became less fashionable, some examples of coats of arms survive from the early 18th century. A rare bronze wall plaque commemorates Sir John Peyton and his wife Lady Rebecca Peyton, who died in 1720 and 1730, respectively. Here, the use of Peyton’s arms acknowledges his knighthood in recognition for his services as military Governor of Ross Castle.
Probably the most famous coat of arms in Dublin to this day is the three castle gates with flaming beacons against a blue shield – the official arms of the city. This has been a symbol of Dublin since the 13th century, but the design was given official status in 1607 by Daniel Molyneux, Ulster King of Arms, who is buried in the vaults of St Audoen’s Church. The arms form the centre-piece of the church’s stained-glass window in reference to the innumerable Mayors and Lord Mayors of Dublin who worshipped in St Audoen’s and found their final resting place in its vaults.
By the middle of the 18th century St Audoen’s Church was no longer associated with Dublin’s high society, and that social tier was itself to become largely irrelevant following the Act of Union. However, the decline in its fortunes most likely saved it from being demolished and rebuilt to modern specifications by some wealthy benefactor, and thus we now find inside its walls a trove of architectural gems stretching all the way back to the late 12th century.
The good news is that it is open to the public, free of charge, each year (currently March to November, 7 days a week). Visitors will find all of the above information and more at the visitor centre reading desk; but for the full immersive experience ask the guides for a guided tour of the site – also free of charge!
Her-story and Her-itage
Women's history, their stories, and their achievements, are often layered within or hidden behind the stories and accolades of men.
We are finally entering a period where women's stories are highlighted and celebrated, and the below names are just a few of the remarkable women associated with our historic heritage sites.
This is Herstory
Margaret O’Sullivan – Garinish Island
*1908 – 1999*
Margaret “Maggie” O’Sullivan lived most of her life on Garinish Island. She began working for the Bryce family in 1926 when she was still a teenager, acting as the housekeeper, attending to high-profile guests to the island, including most of the Irish Presidents who were serving during her lifetime.
Margaret was a fiercely independent woman, rowing her boat back and forth to the mainland to do her shopping and attend mass every Sunday with her dog. Margaret lived on the island until 1998, and was the last permanent resident of Garinish Island.
In 1992 she was recognised by Glengarriff Tourism & Development Association for her contribution to tourism in the area.
Nancy Wyse Power – Custom House Visitor Centre
*1889 – 1963*
Nancy Wyse Power was a member of Cumann na mBan (1915), the Gaelic League (1901), and a Civil Servant. She received her BA in Celtic Studies from UCD, and continued to do a PhD in Germany on Celtic Philology.
Nancy was heavily involved in the Nationalist cause, helping to deliver messages during the 1916 Easter Rising, and supporting the families affected by the Rising in the subsequent years. She was appointed honorary secretary of Cumann na mBan in 1917.
In 1923 she began working for the Department of Industry and Commerce, and in 1932 was personally requested to be the private secretary of Seán T. O’Kelly, within the Department of Local Government and Public Health at the Custom House.
Nancy was one of the first female Principal Officers in the Free State civil service, and used her position to advocate for equal rights for women in the civil service.
Elizabeth O’Farrell – Kilmainham Gaol Museum
Elizabeth O’Farrell’s story has been hidden from history for years. She was literally erased from key events in 1916, airbrushed from the photos as though she were never there.
It is now known and accepted that Elizabeth and Julia Grenan were in a relationship, living with each other for most of their lives, and doing almost everything together. The two joined multiple organisations including the Gaelic League, the Irish Women’s Franchise League, the Irish Women Workers’ Union, and Inghinidhe na hÉireann. They were taken under the wing of Markievicz and trained in the use of firearms.
In 1916, Elizabeth was assigned to the Irish Citizen Army, delivering messages to Athenry, Spiddal, and Galway City, before returning back to Dublin to medically attend to the injured, and deliver ammunition from the GPO to other garrisons in the city. Both she and Grenan cared for James Connolly after he was shot.
Elizabeth was picked by Patrick Pearse to discuss surrender terms with the British military, and was sent out into heavy fire, armed with only a white flag and a Red Cross symbol. It is she who stands alongside Pearse to deliver the unconditional surrender to General Lowe. Lowe assured Elizabeth that she would not be imprisoned, but after the surrender she was strip-searched and held in both Ship Street Barracks and Kilmainham Gaol. Lowe ordered her immediate release upon hearing of her imprisonment.
During the War of Independence both Elizabeth and Julia delivered dispatches to the IRA, and were strongly anti-treaty, helping to raise funds for the families of anti-treaty prisoners.
In 1967 a plaque was unveiled at Holles Street Hospital, where Elizabeth once worked as a mid-wife, and a foundation to support nurses in their postgrad studies was created. In 2012 City Quay Park, where Elizabeth was born, was renamed Elizabeth O’Farrell Park.
Both Elizabeth O’Farrell and Julia Grenan are buried beside each other in Glasnevin Cemetery.
Gwendolen Guinness, The Countess of Iveagh – Farmleigh House & Gardens
*1881 – 1966*
Lady Gwendolen Guinness was one of few women of her time to be elected as a Member of Parliament in the House of Commons. She won her seat in the Southend-On-Sea by-election in 1927, which she kept until 1935.
Though at times Gwendolen was reduced to a fashion icon rather than a parliamentarian, with one report by The Daily Telegraph in 1934 stating that people were ‘eager to see her fashionable clothes’, Gwendolen Guinness remained steadfast in her fight for and defence of women’s rights.
Dr. Kathleen Lynn – Kilmainham Gaol Museum
Dr. Kathleen Lynn was involved in multiple movements throughout her life, including the suffragist, labour, and nationalist movements.
She was a key player during the 1916 Easter Rising, having taught the members of Cumann na mBan first aid, and was Chief Medical Officer of the Irish Citizen Army during the rebellion. She was imprisoned for a time in Kilmainham Gaol for her part in the Rising.
However, her revolutionary involvement is just one side of Kathleen Lynn’s story. She studied in Manchester, Dusseldorf, Dublin, and the US, and was a fellow of the Royal College of Surgeons in 1909. From 1910- 1916 Lynn was the first female resident doctor in the Royal Victoria Eye & Ear Hospital.
She is remembered for her work in St. Ultan’s Hospital for infants and their mothers, and she helped further international research on TB eradication.
Hilda Grove Annesley & Sylvia Cooke Collis – Annes Grove Gardens
*1869 – 1961* – Hilda
Hilda Grove Annesley, nee Macnaghten, married Richard Grove Annesley in 1907 and together they were responsible for creating the paradise garden of Annes Grove near Castletownroche in North Cork. For over fifty years she was the constant presence at Annes Grove welcoming family, friends and visitors from far and near. She was happiest when out riding – she rode side saddle all her life and was admired as a very fine horsewoman.
In 1912, she wrote to Dick (Richard) telling him if she should die suddenly or killed out hunting that he was not to grieve too much as “we must all die someday and I have no wish to live to be older than 50”. She did in fact live until 1961 at the age of 92. Through her diaries and memoirs Hilda left behind an account of country living from the first half of the 20th century.
*1900 – 1973* – Sylvia
Daughter of Hilda Grove Annesley from her first marriage to Henry Cecil Phillips, Sylvia Cooke Collis was born in Glanmire, Co Cork but spent most of her youth in Annes Grove after her mother married Richard. Like her mother she loved the outdoor life and was involved with horses, dogs and fishing (her step father was a very keen fisherman). She also developed an interest in art and studied under John Power at the Crawford Municipal School of Art and later trained with Mainie Jellett, with whom she became friends.
She was good friends with another famous neighbour in North Cork, Elizabeth Bowen, who encouraged Sylvia further in her endeavours. Sylvia exhibited widely in the mid-twentieth century and was known as a modern artist, influenced by Jellett herself and the Fauve movement. No longer a household name, her art nevertheless has stood the test of time and may be due a revival.
- courtesy of Aileen Spitere
Countess Constance Markievicz – Kilmainham Gaol Museum
*1868 – 1927*
Constance Markievicz was heavily involved in the revolutionary fight for Irish freedom and in Irish politics. Her involvement in the republican movement dates to 1908, when she joined both Sinn Féin and Inghinidhe na hÉireann – both of which she became an executive member of in 1911.
Markievicz was sympathetic to the workers cause during the Lock-out in 1913, and set-up soup kitchens. She was the honorary treasurer of the Irish Citizen Army, and was responsible for the merging of Inghinidhe na hÉireann with Cumann na mBan.
During the 1916 Easter Rising, Markievicz was second-in-command to Michael Mallin at Stephen’s Green/Royal College of Surgeons, a role for which she was imprisoned for 14 months. She was held in Kilmainham Gaol for a short period, before being transferred to Aylesbury Prison.
Markievicz was the very first woman elected to Westminster in 1918, but as a member of Sinn Féin, and someone who did not recognise the British Parliament, she refused to take her seat. In March 1919 she became minister for labour in the first Dáil Éireann.
Constance Markievicz is now buried in Glasnevin Cemetery.
Margaret Pearse – Pearse Museum, St Enda’s Park
*1857 – 1932*
Margaret Pearse was a staunch nationalist and elected member of Dáil Éireann in 1921; vocally Anti-Treaty, Margaret was dedicated to keeping the memory of her two sons (Willie and Patrick Pearse) alive in everything that she did after the executions in 1916.
Margaret raised funds to keep the school Patrick set-up, St. Enda’s, running for as long as possible, travelling to America in 1924, raising $10,000 while there.
Margaret Pearse was given a state funeral upon her death, and is now buried in Glasnevin Cemetery.
Lady Anne Wandesforde, The Countess of Ormond – Kilkenny Castle
*1754 – 1830*
Lady Anne, born Susan Frances Elizabeth (Anne) Wandesford, was heiress to the family mines in Castlecomer.
She married into the Butler family, and focused on healthcare within the Castlecomer area, organising the set-up of a fever hospital and infirmary during the 19th century.
Lady Louisa Conolly – Castletown House & Parklands
*1743 – 1821*
Lady Louisa dedicated the later years of her life, after her husband’s death in 1803, to charitable works.
She established a female charter school, as well as industrial schools were children could be trained in various trades. She also had a church built, and believed that both Catholics and Protestants should be educated together.
Angelica Kauffman – Rathfarnham Castle & Dublin Castle
*1741 – 1807*
Renowned neoclassical-style painter Angelica Kauffman is famous for her portraits and history paintings, capturing some of the most influential people of her time through her art.
A founding member of the Royal Academy in London, Kauffman’s talents were highly sought after by the elite, including the Earl of Ely of Rathfarnham Castle. She visited Ireland briefly in 1771, and some of her portraits of the Loftus family still reside in the Castle, including one of the Earl himself, Henry Loftus (see below).
Some of her historical paintings can also be viewed within the State Apartments of Dublin Castle.
Grace O’Malley, The Pirate Queen – Clare Island & Kildavnet Castle
*1530 – 1603*
The legendary Pirate Queen, Grace O’Malley, was a formidable woman, asserting her leadership in a man’s world.
From a young age Grace showed determination, cutting her hair short to look like a boy so that she could board her father’s ship, when he refused her access. This action earned her the nickname of ‘Gráinne Mhaol – Grace the Bald’.
Her first husband, Domhnall O’Flaherty, engaged in ongoing fighting against the Joyce’s for control of Hen’s Castle in Co. Galway. After he was ambushed and killed by his enemies in 1565, Grace defended the castle, refusing to surrender to her enemies, and forcing them to retreat.
Grace became known as one of the most feared sea captains in Ireland, commanding a fleet of ships and an army of 200 men.
Sir Nicholas Malby, Governor of Connaught, said of her at the time that she ‘thinketh herself to be no small lady’ – she was not one to hide her light under a bushel.
Sir Henry Sidney proclaimed Grace ‘a notorious woman in all the coasts of Ireland’.
Today, many OPW sites are associated with Grace O’Malley, including Kildavnet Castle which bears her name ‘Granuaile’s Tower’, and Clare Island where she is said to be buried.
Portrait Miniatures and the Irish Country House
A catalogue of the collection of portrait miniatures donated by Edmund Corrigan to the Irish Georgian Society (IGS) for display at Castletown and Doneraile Court has been published by the IGS in October, 2024. It provides comprehensive catalogue descriptions on the sitters in the portraits and the houses they resided at. Author Kevin Mulligan has unearthed vast quantities of information that connects miniature to miniature, family to family, house to house adding significantly to our understanding of the interlocking family and social histories of Irish country
houses. Paul Caffrey, leading expert on miniatures notes ‘few historic family collections of miniatures survived in Ireland making this a truly remarkable collection of national importance’.
In addition to the detailed catalogue entries and images of sitters there are carefully sourced illustrations of the houses the sitters lived in. The watercolours, pen and ink drawings and paintings of the houses, topographical views and landscapes work especially
well. Kevin weaves a magically interwoven account throughout the 221 catalogue entries.
William Laffan contributes a fascinating essay on the history of portrait miniatures which sets the context to the significance of Edmund’s collection and the links to literature are particularly
effective.
The background to the making and researching of the catalogue goes back to 2016 when miniatures of the Boyle and Fitzgerald families were presented on loan to Castletown and went on
display in the Print Room. The following summer Donough Cahill, Director of the Irish Georgian Society (IGS) raised the possibility of a substantial miniature collection being made available for Castletown on long-term permanent loan. The Collection was to be donated to the IGS by Edmund Corrigan. Following agreement with the Director of National Historic Properties, Rosemary Collier, Dorothea Depner and I progressed plans for the Edmund Corrigan Collection of portrait miniatures, in association with the
Castletown Foundation, to be housed at Castletown. By the middle of 2018 the IGS was getting ready to transfer the miniatures and it was agreed that a small selection of the miniatures would be housed at Doneraile Court – Edmund had fundraised for the earlier conservation works at Doneraile Court
in the 1980’s and wanted to support OPW’s work now in presenting suitable and interesting collections at Doneraile. Ludovica Neglie made the first inventory of the collection investigating provenance with Edmund.
The Chairman of the Castletown Foundation (CF) David Sheehan together with the late Jeanne Meldon, Director and former Deputy Chair of the CF commenced work on how best to display
the miniature collection. Pat Murray, another Director of the CF, had been supporting Edmund in his collecting and together plans started to come together. David knew that Edmund was clear the
style of presentation was to be Country House and David Sheehan designed a scheme for the Lady Kildare Room. Conservation of the Lady Kildare Room and bringing it into visitor tours had been
under discussion for some time. The arrival of Edmund’s collection and the challenge of how best to display it was the catalyst to the conservation project. Jeanne had a wonderful knowledge of the families and the houses and gave much time and effort into organising the groups by family and houses. David
Hartley at Castletown took control of the care of the miniatures working to David’s layouts for the room and Sandra Murphy took charge of ensuring the guiding team prepared for interpreting
the collection to visitors. Joanne Bannon, Historic Collections Registrar, led on the loan agreement documentation between OPW and the IGS in line with the Museum Standards Programme of Ireland (MSPI). The cases for display of the miniatures were at the house including the Luggala bookcase from the Green Drawing Room, upcycled unused frames and furniture from the Farmyard. It all combined to make a most suitable receptacle for the collection. A beautiful porcelain desk set donated by the late
Della Howard through the London Chapter of the IGS is part of the displays in the Lady Kildare Room and it was the late John Redmill and John Berger who presented that to Castletown. In parallel work was beginning to take off on the upgrade and conservation of the Ground Floor at Doneraile Court.
It was so special that Edmund could be present when Doneraile Court – a house he had fundraised for and donated several paintings to – re-opened in June 2019. He could see the interiors come back to life with two stunning framed displays of his portrait miniatures. It was another day of great celebration when in the final few days – unknowns to us - pre Covid lockdown – we gathered on 6 March, 2020 to view the collection installed in the Lady Kildare’s Room together with the celebration to mark the
acquisition of the Duchess of Leinster portrait by Reynolds – a joint purchase by the OPW/CF and the Friends of the National Collections of Ireland (FNCI). It was a delight to see Edmund enjoy seeing the miniatures presented so magnificently. When the second phase of Doneraile Court was completed we were delighted that Edmund was able to view the displays in May 2023, just months before his untimely death. The two interiors of Castletown and Doneraile fittingly bookend the Foreword to
the newly published catalogue on the Edmund Corrigan Collection. A job well done and a fitting testimony to excellent outcomes for Ireland’s cultural heritage from the careful nurturing of private philanthropy with charitable and public institutions. The Edmund Corrigan Collection at Castletown and
Doneraile Court is something we can all be proud of.
From the Blasket Islands to Springfield Massachusetts A Well Worn Path
For the past twenty five years, a group of Dingle Peninsula businesses make their way to Springfield Massachusetts for the
Big E – the Eastern States Exposition – a three week event that draws 1.7 million visitors. It is a well worn path in both directions and very much a meeting of friends.
Springfield has an amazing connection with West Kerry and the Blaskets, very much evidenced by the gathering of the city’s great and good, including many Blasket descendants, at a recent exhibition opening in Springfield Museums which celebrated the
heritage and impact of the Blasket islanders in that part of the world. The temporary exhibit was the first fruit of a Memorandum of Understanding signed last May between the OPW and the Museum. The guest of honour was the remarkable Mairéad Kearney-Shea, at 102 years young, longtime Springfield
resident and the only surviving woman born on the Great Blasket.
That the OPW and the Blasket Centre in particular would be represented at such an occasion and at the Big E is a natural expression of the deep and very much current ties of history, kinship and friendship that are so important to nurture today. My visit, which followed a similar trip by then Minister Patrick O’Donovan in September 2023, allowed me to reach out and thank places such as the John Boyle O’Reilly Club, the Sons of
Erin and the Irish Cultural Centre of New England who regularly organise tours to Ireland and see the Blasket Centre as a
highpoint of their trip.
My Springfield trip coincided with that of a Kerry County Council delegation led by Cathaoirleach Breandán Fitzgerald and Irish Consul General, Sighle Fitzgerald. This significant combined representation was noted and greatly appreciated by
our Western Massachusetts friends, at all levels.
Springfield is an intrinsic part of the Blasket story. Waves of Blasket emigrants sought a place where they could deal with the enormous dislocation of leaving their native home in a place where they could at least share their language and culture and have a supportive community network. That difficult transition and their subsequent success in their new country is the foundation of a shared and invaluable heritage that is enormously
important – on both sides – now and into the future.
