The Fall of Charles Fort – October 1690
As one of the largest military installations in the country Charles Fort has been associated with some of the most momentous events in Irish history. The most significant of these include the Jacobite-Williamite War in 1690 and the Irish Civil War in 1922 – 1923.
As a military fortress Charles Fort is an outstanding example of star-shaped fort with five bastions. Built between 1688 and 1692, Charles Fort was designed by William Robinson, Architect of the Royal Hospital Kilmainham and Superintendent of all fortifications in Ireland. In his design of Charles Fort, Robinson was influenced by the work of the French Engineer, Sebastien de Vauban, who perfected this form of military architecture. These forts were the most effective form of defence during the age of cannon and musket fire.
At its height, there were 94 canons in Charles Fort in 1690 – a formidable deterrent for any attacker. Its walls are low and thick and are circa 12 metres wide. The fort is strong on its seaward side but the landward defences were never fully completed. This would contribute to its fall in the siege of 1690.
The succession of James II to the throne of England in 1685 ultimately lead to the War of the Two Kings. James’s refusal to accept the rights of parliament and his continued devotion to Catholicism was unacceptable to the majority of the English Lords. In 1689, Civil War broke out as King James landed in Kinsale in an attempt to regain the throne.
In 1690, the Williamite forces, under the joint command of John Churchill, Earl of Marlborough, and Ferdinand Wilhelm, Duke of Wurttemberg, arrived in Kinsale and attached both Charles Fort and James Fort. James Fort was besieged first but was forced to surrender when a barrel of gun-powder exploded, killing many of the garrison and destroying the main gate. After James Fort was captured, William’s army seized the defenders cannons and turned them on Charles Fort. They opened fire pinning down the defenders on the western side. The capture of James Fort made front page news on the London Gazette on the 16th October 1690.
Charles Fort had one great weakness in that, it was essentially, unfinished. The three landward facing bastions were only supposed to be temporary and were thus un-mortared. The masonry slipped along the face and flank of the Cockpit Bastion, which was described by the Jacobite engineers, as very weak. It was thus an obvious target for the attackers.
Churchill and Wurttemberg commanded 10,000 men. Williams’ army was a coalition of European forces which included, English, French Huguenots and Danish forces. The Jacobite Commander, Lieutenant Colonel Edward Scott, had close to 1,200 soldiers defending Charles Fort. Despite the odds against them, the defenders put up a fierce fight holding out for thirteen days. When seven Williamite warships appeared on the horizon, the defenders found themselves stretched to breaking point as the Williamite’s focused their efforts on the venerable eastern flank. From the high ground looking directly into the Fort, they positioned eight 24 pounder iron cannons and fired 60-80 cannonballs per hour for three days into that vulnerable position.
Eventually, the wall collapsed and the defenders were offered the choice of surrender or death. Facing over 5 to 1 odds and armed with obsolete weaponry, with many of the garrison unable to fight due to illness and battle wounds, the defenders had no choice but to submit. They were allowed to surrender under terms and to leave Charles Fort with their flags and weapons and march to Limerick where they continued to fight until the end of the war. Churchill and Wurttemberg took over commend of Charles Fort while Churchill appointed his brother Governor of Charles Fort and Kinsale.
News that Charles Fort had been captured arrived just as the London Gazette went to press for the 16th of October edition.
The Pirate Queen of Mayo’s Monuments
For the past year I have been working on a multi-team project to highlight Ireland’s unguided National Monuments in OPW care. There are approximately 790 of these monuments, dating from various periods, encompassing castles, tombs, abbeys, forts, and standing stones. Many of these different sites connect with each other through their historical context, within this extensive portfolio.
The monuments of County Mayo are an example of this historical connection, with many of them linked to the powerful families of Burke and O’Malley. Its castles and abbeys are forever connected because of their association with one woman. One woman who broke the mould, who kept fighting, and who has gone down in Irish legend as The Pirate Queen.
There are many names The Pirate Queen is known by today, but she is probably best known as Gráinne O’Máille (Grace O’Malley) or Granuaile. Three castles in Mayo are referred to by her name: Rockfleet Castle, Kildavnet Castle, and Clare Island Castle are also known as Granuaile’s Castles/Towers. Both Kildavnet and Clare Island Castle were built, in the 15th and 16th centuries, by the O’Malley family, a powerful Gaelic clan within Connaught. Rockfleet, a 15th/16th century tower, was owned by the Burke family, descendants of the Anglo-Norman de Burgos. It was this castle that became Gráinne’s base of piracy operations through her marriage to her second husband, Richard-an- Iarainn Burke.
Gráinne spent her childhood between the family castles of Belclare in Co. Galway, and Clare Island in Co. Mayo. It is likely that her education was delivered by the monks who lived in the abbey on Clare Island, an abbey of which the O’Malley’s were patrons. The original abbey is said to date back to the 13th century, while the church that exists on the island today dates to around the 15th century and contains the tomb of the O’Malley family. A plaque with the family motto ‘Terra Mariq Potens’ (Powerful by Land and Sea), sits beside a canopied tomb, believed to be the burial place of Gráinne O’Máille herself. Today, the church contains some of the finest medieval frescoes in Ireland.
Gráinne returned home to Clare Island after the murder of her first husband, Dónal O’Flaherty, by a rival clan in 1565. It was then that she established her fleet of three galleys and an army of 200 men. This army was partially made up of O’Flaherty men, who followed her leadership after her husband’s death. Such loyalty was a testament to her prowess as a leader, as well as her tenacity; something which was displayed from a young age. Wanting to join her father on a voyage to Spain, Gráinne cut her hair like a boy, earning her the nickname Gráinne Mhaol (Grace the Bald).
The castle on Clare Island was situated near the harbour, making it the perfect place for Gráinne to begin her career as a ‘sea merchant’. The castle is three storeys tall, with the main living room likely situated on the first floor, and there is evidence that gun-loops existed which are now blocked up. A parapet walk is situated along the top of the north and south walls, a typical security feature of castles from the medieval period.
Gráinne was strategic in where she operated her fleets from, and her second marriage to Richard-an-Iarainn Burke was one driven by material convenience. She wanted access to his castle at Rockfleet, ideally located on a quiet inlet of Clew Bay, not too far from the O’Malley Kildavnet Castle overlooking the Achill Sound. Both castles are four storeys high, with stunning views over the surrounding water and land, perfect for observing oncoming attacks. It was known that Gráinne launched attacks on trading ships from Galway during her time at Rockfleet, leading to an attempted siege of the castle in 1579 by Captain William Martin.
The Captain very nearly became Gráinne’s captive.
Gráinne and Richard agreed to a trial marriage of a year, with folklore claiming that after the year was up Gráinne locked Richard out of Rockfleet Castle and demanded a divorce. This is unlikely given that the couple were married right up to his death in 1584.
It was after Richard’s death that life became increasingly difficult for Gráinne in the form of newly appointed Governor of Connaught, Richard Bingham; whose sights became set on the fearsome queen of the sea. After enduring imprisonment in Dublin Castle, the capture of her youngest son, and the confiscation and destruction of her fleet and lands over a number of years, Gráinne took a stand and appealed directly to Queen Elizabeth I to end Bingham’s vendetta. They met in 1593, with the Queen granting Gráinne’s return to the sea and rebuilding of her fleet, believing the Pirate Queen would be fighting the Queen’s cause on the waters. Gráinne now had a fleet of three galleys
capable of carrying 300 men each.
It is said that Gráinne O’Máille died in 1603 at Rockfleet Castle, and now rests on Clare Island. Her strength and her fierce nature did not go unnoticed by the men she dealt with throughout her life. Sir Henry Sidney (English Lord Deputy) stated that she was the most ‘notorious woman in all the coasts of Ireland’, while Sir Nicholas Malby (Governor of Connaught) claimed ‘she thinketh herself to be no small lady’. Gráinne lived an adventurous and vivid life, and her monuments in County Mayo reflect the larger than life character of this extraordinary woman.
More information on these unguided monuments in Mayo can be found here
Sources:
- Chambers, Anne. Ireland’s Pirate Queen: the true story of Grace O’Malley, 2003.
- Dib.ie/biography – contributed by Emmet O’Byrne
- Harbison, Peter. Guide to National and Historic Monuments of Ireland, 1992.
- maps.arcgis.com – Historic Environment Viewer
- Tuatha.ie
A day in the life of the Executive Head Chef to the President at Áras an Uachtaráin
Tucked away, almost hidden within the serene surroundings of the Phoenix Park, Dublin lies Áras an Uachtaráin, a national historical landmark and the official residence of the President of Ireland. Under the care of the Office of Public Works, is an elegant building steeped in rich endless history, diplomacy, and ceremonial grace. Behind its pristine white façade, works a dedicated team, each member playing a vital role in maintaining the high standards expected of the President’s household. Among them is the Executive Head Chef (EHC), whose role blends creativity, precision, and diplomacy on a daily basis.
The EHC works in unison with the Service Manager, Bernadette Carroll, the Head Chef Suzanne O’ Donohoe, the House Manager Dōnal Mc Coy, Chefs and the Household Assistants.
It is an early start for the Executive Head Chef and her team, at times when most of the country is still asleep! The lights in Áras an Uachtaráin’s kitchen flicker on as the day’s busy schedule begins with a review of the day’s planned events. This schedule is shaped not only by regular meals for the President and staff, but by official engagements, State dinners, working lunches, visiting groups & Diplomatic Receptions. Each demanding meticulous attention to detail.
Menus are never static. While guided by the seasons, they are constantly adapted based on the availability of fresh, local ingredients, the dietary requirements of guests, and any last-minute changes to the President’s agenda.
Trusted Irish suppliers provide organic vegetables, along with the produce provided by the Áras gardens, fresh fish from coastal waters, lamb and beef raised on this island’s green pastures, all of which are selected and approved. by both the EHC and the Head Chef, Suzanne O’ Donohoe.
The first meal of the day begins with breakfast service, an intimate yet understated affair. The options are endless: a hearty traditional Irish breakfast or perhaps a lighter choice of poached eggs, grilled tomatoes, and soda bread. Maybe even some homemade porridge or granola with fresh berries. Whatever the President decides upon, everything is prepared from scratch, with a key emphasis on presentation, flavour and freshness.
As the morning continues, the kitchen is filled with the comforting aromas of fresh baked brown bread, meat or vegetables roasting, and the sounds of a lot of kitchen utensils in use! The Head Chef personally inspects every plate before it leaves the kitchen, ensuring that it not only meets the highest standards of nutrition and presentation, but also offers a moment of quiet pleasure.
By mid-morning, attention shifts to formal events. If a visiting head of state, ambassador, or a dignitary are scheduled for lunch or dinner, the EHC will meet with the President’s personnel and protocol staff to review every detail. Everything from menus, guest preferences and cultural sensitivities to wine pairings and timings are considered.
Culinary diplomacy plays a crucial role in these meals. Menus are planned to reflect and promote Irish heritage and Irish producers, while offering a contemporary twist. An example of such a menu could be, a starter of Burren smoked salmon paired with a carpaccio of pickled garden beetroot, followed by a rack of Wicklow lamb with wild garlic mash, and finishing with an apple tart made using the Áras garden heritage Irish apples.
Once menus are confirmed, the EHC meets with the chefs to decide on garnishes and presentation. ‘Mise en place’ ensues. Every sauce is started from base stocks. Every herb is finely chopped and each loaf of bread is baked fresh. In this kitchen, precision is not a preference, it is paramount.
At noon, lunch for the President is served. Depending on the day’s agenda, it may be a solitary meal, a working lunch with Ministers, or a formal gathering in the State Dining Room. For high-level occasions the EHC is present, ensuring every plate meets the highest standards, and adding final garnishes with precision
and care.
Some days the midday window becomes a time for creative exploration, testing new recipes or refining old ones into potential new staples. Innovation is always balanced with respect for Irish culinary traditions.
Afternoons are quieter in terms of service, but not in responsibility. The EHC uses this time for team meetings, mentoring new chefs, and liaising with the Head Chef in relation to garden produce. Áras an Uachtaráin can proudly boast its own organic walled kitchen garden, which is an essential part of its sustainability ethos.
Then comes the essential but the not so glamorous side paperwork: stocktaking, collection of invoices, preparation of accounts for payment, and ensuring the kitchen complies with stringent hygiene, allergen and safety protocols.
Occasionally, the President hosts afternoon teas or receptions, calling for the refined artistry of pastries and canapés. From delicate, bite size savoury morsels to cakes and pastries. The EHC ensures flavours are balanced and textures tailored to modern tastes.
State dinners are the pinnacle of all the chef’s day. Though service typically begins around 7p.m., preparations are set in motion, days and hours earlier. Tables are laid with precision, every place setting pristine, and each course timed down to the second. The EHC leads the plating line, coordinating closely with Bernadette, the Service Manager, to ensure seamless synchronicity.
Meals are typically four courses, designed with a narrative: from starter to dessert, each element reflecting Ireland’s culinary identity. The EHC must be vigilant, ensuring no guest is left waiting and each plate upholds the exacting standards of the President’s table.
Following a state dinner, the kitchen team debriefs, and cleans meticulously, leaving the kitchen ready for the next day. By 11p.m., the lights dim and the doors close, only for the process to start again in a few hours.
The Executive Head Chef at Áras an Uachtaráin occupies a unique role as a custodian of national identity expressed not through words but through food. In every plate served, there is a quiet diplomacy at play, a story of Ireland told through taste.
The demands are high; the pace relentless, it is hard work but very rewarding!
Barryscourt Castle Reopening
Barryscourt Castle, one of Ireland’s most significant and finest surviving medieval tower houses, reopened its doors in April 2025 following a transformative conservation project led by the Office of Public Works (OPW). Officially unveiled on April 24th by An
Taoiseach Micheál Martin, the castle promises to become a cornerstone of Cork’s cultural tourism, blending centuries of history with a modern visitor experience.
Originally constructed between 1392 and 1420, Barryscourt Castle
was once the seat of the renowned Anglo-Norman Barry family, who dominated the region for centuries. Its well-preserved structure—including a striking tower house, intact bawn walls,
and historic gardens—offers a rare glimpse into Ireland’s feudal past. The castle played a key role in regional conflicts and stands
as a powerful symbol of Norman and Gaelic Irish heritage.
An inscription over one of the fireplaces reads: “In 1588, David Barry and Eleanor Roche made me.” This ties directly to the
castle’s 16th-century restoration and serves as a poignant reminder of its longstanding historical presence. As Brendan Gleeson, foreperson with the OPW National Monuments team, notes: “It’s almost like the building’s voice is still speaking to us.”
The ground floor of the tower house even contains a dungeon, where prisoners were dropped through a dramatic ‘drophole’
from the second floor—a powerful testament to the castle’s defensive past. Closed to the public since 2016 due to structural concerns, Barryscourt Castle has now undergone meticulous and
significant conservation efforts, extending over most of the past decade. These works were carefully designed to preserve the historic fabric while improving the visitor experience and modernising the castle’s facilities.
John Geraghty, Architect with the OPW, said:
“ These include a comprehensive programme of conservation works, fabric repairs and a complete Mechanical and Electrical upgrade— undertaken by the OPW Mechanical and Electrical team. The conservation of Barryscourt is also a credit to the skill and commitment of the National Monuments Mallow District Works Team—some of whom were involved in the original restoration of the castle.”
To protect the site’s biodiversity, ecological consultants were also
engaged to ensure that the work did not harm important bat maternity roosts present at the castle.
Master craftsperson Pearse Kearney, an external craftsman who specialises in bronze windows and leadlights, was first brought onto the project in 2001. His work involved restoring the castle’s extremely narrow windows using traditional methods, creating diamond-shaped quarries of glass set in lattices of lead, surrounded by soldered, galvanised steel. These careful interventions show the utmost respect for the original structure.
The conservation project involved the expertise of highly skilled traditional tradespeople—masons, stonecutters, carpenters—whose painstaking efforts exemplify the OPW’s commitment to the preservation of Ireland’s built heritage. The project included critical structural repairs, a full mechanical and electrical upgrade, and landscape restoration, ensuring Barryscourt Castle remains a centrepiece of Cork’s heritage tourism offering.
As Brendan Gleeson explains, “ We’ve done quite an extensive
mechanical and electrical project within the building. It opens up the building to many uses in the future.”
The castle has been sufficiently upgraded so that it can enjoy practical use in the years to come, with facilities that support guided tours and cultural programming. Showcasing this,
historians Dr. Jane Fenlon and Dr. Danielle O Donovan prepared a new interpretative exhibition for Barryscourt comprising text and illustrations. Jurga Rakauskaite-Larkin, OPW prepared and
executed designs for the new Exhibition under the guidance and direction of Sabrina Commins and Des Lowry, National Monuments.
Visitors can now explore the ground floor of the Castle and Tower House, with guided tours available for the upper floors. The beautifully restored orchard will also be accessible, offering an atmospheric setting for cultural and educational events. To celebrate the reopening, admission will be free for the 2025 season. Throughout the season, a variety of heritage talks, guided walks, and special events will take place.
Festivities began with a very wellattended festival of history and music which took place in mid-June. The event, which featured renowned musicians and insightful talks on Ireland’s cultural
heritage, was a fitting celebration to promote the reopening of the site.
At the official reopening, Taoiseach Micheál Martin spoke of the castle’s cultural and historical significance: “As a proud Cork native, I am delighted to see Barryscourt Castle, a landmark of
our county’s rich history, conserved to its former glory. This castle holds a special place in Cork’s heritage, and its reopening is a moment of pride for the region. The OPW’s investment ensures that future generations can experience and appreciate the fascinating story of Barryscourt. Beyond its historical significance, this project will also enhance tourism and cultural life in Cork, drawing visitors from across Ireland and beyond, and providing
lasting benefits to the area.”
Minister of State for the OPW, Kevin Moran, added: “Barryscourt Castle is one of the finest examples of a late medieval Irish tower
house, and the conservation work undertaken by the OPW ensures its legacy for future generations. The meticulous works, led by our expert teams, not only safeguard the castle’s fabric but also enhance the visitor experience, allowing people to explore this unique site in an engaging and immersive way.”
Barryscourt Castle’s reopening stands as a proud example of the OPW’s broader mission to care for Ireland’s rich cultural assets. The OPW currently maintains almost 1,000 National Monuments and historic buildings at 780 sites throughout the country. Each restoration enlists expert tradespeople and traditional techniques
to preserve the unique spirit of these monuments. With Barryscourt Castle brought back to life, the OPW reaffirms its
deep commitment to the conservation of Irish heritage – ensuring these treasures endure for generations to come.
