Skip to content

Heritage Ireland

Unspeakable History

At his trial for criminal indecency in 1895, the Irish writer Oscar Wilde was asked to define what was meant by the phrase ‘the love that dare not speak its name’. The quote was from a sonnet entitled ‘Two Loves’ which was written by his lover, Lord Alfred Douglas. By asking him to translate this poetic allusion into a factual prose definition, the prosecution were seeking to lure Wilde into self-incrimination. Wilde’s attempts to articulate and defend the way he lived and loved during his cross-examination ultimately contributed to his guilty verdict and a sentence of two years hard labour.

 

To speak frankly and openly about being homosexual was a dangerous thing in this part of the world up until relatively recently. For most people in the past who we might now see as being LGBTQ+, silence offered safety. They deliberately did not keep a record of their desires, their relationships or the nature of their love. What does survive of LGBTQ+ lives is coded and deliberately obscured.  Very often the papers of LGBTQ+ figures were rigorously culled or completely destroyed after their death, either at their own request or by family members anxious to protect their reputation.  It is also likely that some people who felt attraction to members of their own sex may not have been able to identify others who shared their feelings, or were not able to express what they felt even if they did suspect they had found a kindred spirit.

Reconstructing LGBTQ+ lives from the past often feels like making a jigsaw when most of the pieces are missing. We are forced to fill the blanks through considered speculation, creating narratives which are always provisional because we often lack the evidence to be definitive about a figure’s LGBTQ+ identity.

Wilde’s trial highlights the fact that in order to prosecute people for same-sex activities, it was necessary to name them. In contrast with other realms of life, the legal and penal system often offers rare examples of documented and verified evidence of LGBTQ+ lives. As a place where a significant number of men were imprisoned and punished for their sexual relations with other men, Kilmainham Gaol has a very important place in Ireland’s LGBTQ+ history. It was for that reason that in 2018, the museum first began running special queer history tours in order to share these stories. These tours now run every year, often to coincide with Pride or in response to specific requests from the Irish LGBTQ+ community.

While the prison registers record many men who were held in Kilmainham Gaol as a result of same-sex relations, the newspaper reports and other documentary evidence which might flesh out these stories is usually absent. The ‘unspeakable’ nature of these crimes meant that they were often not considered fit to be published. The exception to this was The Dublin Castle Scandals of 1884. In that year, the ‘United Ireland’ newspaper published stories revealing that male members of the British administration in Ireland had been engaging in homosexual activities. The paper was edited by William O’Brien M.P., a member of the Irish Parliamentary Party led by Charles Stewart Parnell. Parnell had bought the paper to be a mouthpiece for the party and these articles were part of a wider battle between the Irish nationalist movement and the British government at the time.

pamphlet of poems
"Hold Your Nose! A Collection of Sanitary Songs for the disinfection of Dublin Castle" was a pamphlet of poems celebrating the prosecution of the men involved in the Dublin Castle Scandal in 1884

The initial targets of these revelations were James Ellis French, the Director of Detectives of the Royal Irish Constabulary (RIC), and Gustavus Cornwall, the Secretary of the General Post Office. Cornwall sued William O’Brien for libel and lost, leading to the criminal prosecution of French, Cornwall and six other men. All eight were held in Kilmainham during their criminal trial.

While the focus of the prosecution was to find evidence of sexual activity between the men, the trials inadvertently gave a brief glimpse into what appears to have been quite a vibrant, albeit hidden, gay subculture in Dublin in the late 19th century. Although one of the newspaper headlines described them as ‘Unspeakable Crimes’, the Irish press often covered the court proceedings in great detail, although on occasion they would state that certain aspects of the evidence was too obscene for publication. Despite this, stories emerged of sexual encounters in numerous places such as the Botanic Gardens in Glasnevin, the urinals bellow the Thomas Moore statue, and the back lanes behind the Queen’s Theatre on Great Brunswick Street. Less salacious details also emerged such as musical evenings in each other’s homes, trips to concerts and nights at the theatre. So significant were musical events in the lives of some of the men that for years afterwards in Dublin describing a man as ‘musical’ became a euphemism for gay.

The men implicated in the trial came from all classes and walks of life. In addition to upper middle-class government officials like French and Cornwall, there were army officers, office clerks, working class men and ordinary soldiers. These men would sometimes meet in tenement rooms in Great Ship Street and Golden Lane in what the prosecution described as as male brothels. Daniel Considine rented the rooms on Great Ship Street and was described as a blind former schoolteacher who supported himself as a basket maker. When giving his evidence he mentioned that he had, in his youth, performed as a female impersonator on the stage and for private parties attended by the Lord Lieutenant in Dublin Castle. James Pillar, a Quaker grocer and wine merchant, allowed one of the backrooms in his shop on Rathmines Road to be used for assignations which became known as either Pillar’s Bower or Evelina’s Bower.

Some of the most fascinating details came from the testimony of Malcolm Johnston, the son of a wealthy Dublin businessman, who seems to have been coerced into testifying against his former friends. On one occasion he described a ball he held in his family home on Clyde Road in Ballsbridge when his father was out of town. All the guests were men, and Johnston and many of the men wore female attire. Among those who attended were two clergymen, one Catholic and one Church of Ireland. Johnston also testified about the nicknames the men adopted, most of which were female. Cornwall was known as ‘The Duchess’, another man, George Taylor, was ’The Maid of Athens’ while Pillar was referred to as ‘Pa’.  Johnston himself was referred to as ‘Lady Constance Clyde’ or just ‘Connie’.

Were it not for these trials, which had catastrophic consequences for the lives of the majority of the men drawn into the scandal, we may well have known nothing about the extent of gay life in Dublin in the 1880s. In contrast, we don’t know whether a similar scene existed in previous decades, nor do we know what kind of chilling effect the exposure of the 1884 trials had on the gay scene in Dublin in the years that followed.

Prisons are places where secrets were often laid bare and in 1889 an article in the ‘Kildare Observer’ describes how John Bradley, a young man aged 25, was arrested and imprisoned in Kilmainham Gaol for 14 days on charges of vagrancy. He was born in Naas but grew up in New Row, just off Francis Street in the Liberties where he attended the Christian Brother’s School for Boys. His father died when he was very young and his mother supported them both as a laundress. She died a few weeks prior to his arrest and John seems to have been at a loss when it came to supporting himself which led to him being arrested for vagrancy. Kilmainham was an all-male prison at that time. When John was ordered to go for a bath he resisted, and following a heated discussion with the warders, the “poor creature with tears in her eyes pleaded that she was a woman” and had actually been born Jane Bradley. They never remember being referred to as anything other than John Bradley and had never been dressed or referred to as a girl. The prisoner, now called Jane Bradley, was transferred to Grangegorman Women’s Prison. Like so many of the criminal prisoners, we don’t know what happened to John/Jane after this, or what gender they subsequently identified with. The article concluded with the sentence “On being received into Grangegorman Jail, the prisoner was dressed in women’s clothes, which she seemed to feel very awkward and uncomfortable in.” Interestingly, in a handwritten memoir recently donated to Kilmainham Gaol Museum, a former prison guard who worked in Kilmainham and other prisons record a similar case when he was based in Dundalk Prison. With so little information it is impossible to know what the true story of John/Jane Bradley was. While it is certainly an interesting example of gender non-conformity, and one could speculate that John/Jane Bradley may have been what would now be described as transgender, it is impossible to be definitive.

newspaper headline clipping
Kildare Observer, 23 March 1889

The criminalisation of sexual relations between men in the past gave a degree of visibility to gay men’s lives which was almost entirely absent for lesbian and bisexual women. A number of the women associated with the struggle for Irish independence who were imprisoned in Kilmainham in the 20th century lived in partnerships with other women. The exact nature of these relationships is unknown. In 20th century Ireland it was perfectly acceptable for two single women to share a home together and be essentially treated as a social unit. This was certainly the case for Margaret Skinnider, a primary school teacher from Coatbridge near Glasgow.

Skinnider’s parents were Irish and she became involved in the independence movement and joined the Irish Citizen Army. She fought in the 1916 Rising where she served as a sniper on the roof of the College of Surgeons. She was seriously wounded, but managed to make a full recovery. In 1917 she went to the United States where she lectured about her experiences during the Rising to raise money for the Republican cause. According to Skinnider’s biographer, Dr. Mary McAuliffe, it was there she met Tipperary-born Cumann na mBan member, Nora O’Keefe. The two women moved in together in 1919 and shared the rest of their lives until Nora’s death in 1962. Neither woman ever publicly identified as LGBTQ+, but it is clear that their relationship with one another was the most significant in their lives.

Both women took the Republican side during the Civil War and were imprisoned as a result, though it seems likely that they were never held in the same prison and the same time. In August 1923 Nora O’Keefe signed the autograph book of Jenny Coyle, a fellow prisoner in Kilmainham Gaol. Significantly, she found a page that Margaret had signed earlier that year when she and Jenny Coyle were prisoners together in Mountjoy Prison. Nora very deliberately squeezed in her own name beside it. It remains a small but significant record of their devotion to one another.

autograph book
Image of Margaret Skinnider and Nora O’Keeffe’s signature in Jenny Coyles Civil War Prison autograph book

It is from fragments like Nora O’Keefe’s unusually placed signature that we can begin to recover LGBTQ+ lives from the past. The histories recounted here are just some of many LGBTQ+ stories that have come to light since Kilmainham Gaol first started running its queer history tours. While they may be just fragments, together they form a larger narrative and give a deeper insight into the secret queer lives of people from the past. LGBTQ+ people often struggled to survive in a time when society was deeply hostile to them and they faced terrible persecution because of their sexual identity.  However, many of the stories which have emerged in relation to Kilmainham Gaol also feature periods of joy, resilience and love. Telling LGBTQ+ stories in Kilmainham Gaol, which were so long thought of as unspeakable, feels like an act of liberation and long overdue restitution.

image of Pride and Irish flag flying outside Kilmainham's courthouse building
Pride at Kilmainham Gaol Credit OPW

Exploring Ireland’s Beautiful Islands

This summer, step beyond the mainland and discover Ireland’s treasured islands. With accessible ferry routes, guided tours, and the promise of unforgettable scenery and stories, there’s no better time to explore these six gems.

 

Clare Island

Nestled in the heart of Clew Bay, Clare Island is a captivating blend of history, archaeology, and natural beauty. At the island’s core stands the ruins of Clare Island Cistercian Abbey, a formidable medieval stronghold dating back to the 15th century.  It thought the original building dates from the early 13th century and is now under the care of the Office of Public Works.  This medieval church is significant for the extent of its surviving medieval wall paintings.

Officially known as ‘St. Bridget’s Abbey’ it is more correctly termed a ‘Cell’.  The building contains tombs of the local ruling family, the O’Malleys- including that of the legendary Grace O’Malley or Grainne Mhaol – the pirate queen of Connaught.  The abbey is a testament to Ireland’s monastic heritage and monastic craftsmanship.
Access is available via ferries from Roonagh Pier, with facilities to explore the site unguided, though caretakers are on hand during the summer months.  The OPW’s ongoing conservation efforts ensure the preservation of this rich heritage for future generations.

 

view of the abbey among the surrounding graves
Exterior View of the Abbey Credit Photographic Archive, National Monuments Service, Government of Ireland

Garinish Island (Illnacullin)

Garinish Island (Illnacullin), sitting in the picturesque Glengarriff Harbour within Bantry Bay, is home to beautiful gardens designed by Harold Peto on behalf of the owners, Annan and Violet Bryce. The Bryces, had holidayed in Glengarriff for a number of years prior to purchasing the Island in 1910 from the British War Office.

After four years with a workforce of up to 100 people, the Bryces’ dream of building a beautiful garden was realised. Due to changes in the Bryce family financial situation, the planned mansion was not built. The very mild climate, due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, was a factor in choosing Garinish Island to home a great variety of plants from around the world.

Having moved permanently to the Island on the death of her husband Annan in 1923, Violet opened the gardens to the public in 1925. Roland Bryce, eldest son of Violet and Annan, moved to Garinish in 1932 to assist his mother in the care of the gardens.   Roland took ownership of the Island on the death of his mother in 1939 and the Island has been in the care of the Office of Public Works since Roland’s passing in 1953.        Murdo Mackenzie, Head Gardener on Garinish Island from 1928 until 1971, contributed hugely to the gardens.  Under the current stewardship of Glyn Sherratt and his team, the gardens are maintained and continually evolving, thus ensuring the Bryce Legacy continues.

We welcome over 60,000 visitors annually to Garinish Island, with a recommended visit time of at least one hour for the garden. In 2015, a refurbishment of the former home of Bryce family members was undertaken and is now open for guided tours.

Garinish Island is home to a pair of sea eagles and many visitors are delighted to catch a glance of these wonderful birds whilst visiting the gardens.

Vantage point at the Grecian Temple
The Grecian Temple, a roofless rotunda overlooking the sea and Caha Mountains.

Sherkin Franciscan Friary

Perched on Sherkin Island, County Cork, the Sherkin Friary is a captivating relic of Ireland’s rich monastic heritage. Overlooking a rocky strand, the ruins evoke a sense of history and tranquillity, inviting visitors to reflect on Ireland’s monastic traditions.  Founded in 1460 by Chieftain Fineen O’Driscoll, this Franciscan friary—also known as ‘The Abbey’—stands as a testament to Ireland’s spiritual and historical legacy. Its resilience was tested in 1537 when it was attacked and burned in a reprisal against the O’Driscoll clan. Despite this, it continued to operate until 1650, when Cromwellian forces confiscated the site.

It later came into the hands of the local Beecher family before being handed over to the Office of Public Works (OPW) in 1895. Accessible by boat visitors are advised to exercise caution during their visit, as the site is unguided.

A visit to Sherkin Friary is a journey into Ireland’s storied past—a must-see for those exploring Cork’s rich heritage. Each of these islands offers a distinctive glimpse into Ireland’s natural beauty, history, and culture. Whether you’re wandering through the exotic gardens of Garinish, exploring the wild landscapes of the Blaskets, immersing yourself in Irish tradition or uncovering medieval history on Clare Island — they all promise memorable summer adventures.

Distant view of Sherkin Abbey backdropped by a clear blue sky
The abbey on Sherkin Island Credit OPW

Oileáin Árainn

 

Ón chéad lá ar thosaigh daoine ag cuir fúthú sna hOileáin Árainn, bhí daoine ag teacht go Árainn, Inis Méain agus Inis Oírr ar cuairt. Do mhairnéalaigh na Cré-Umhaoise, ba stop áisiúil é ar a n-aistir aníos an chósta thiar, mar aon le deis maith roinnt copair a thrádáil le haghaidh fionnadh agus iasc trimithe. Sa ré Chríostaí, le himeachta ama, ba lár-ionad léinn a bhí sna hoileáin, agus tháinig ábhair naoimh sna sluaite ag Mainistir Naomh Éanna, chun teagasc a dhéanamh leis an fear naofa. Níos déanaí, leann oilithrigh lorg na naomh, iad ag súil go dtuillfidís am saor ó phurgóid agus máthúnas dá bpeacaí. Do Rómánsaithe an 19ú aois, ba ídéal ar Éire ‘Ghaelach’ a bhí in Árainn, áit nár fhág an saol nua-aimsirthe a lorg, más fíor.

Tá Árainn go mór faoi thioncar a dúnta móra cloiche. Tá Dún Aonghasa and Dúchathair suite go guagach go hard ar ailtreacha theas an oileáin, agus tá Dún Eoghnachta agus Dún Eochla lonnaithe ar an talamh ard i lár an oileáin. Bhí cónaí ar uasaicme an oileáin sna dúnta le linn ré na luath-mheánaoise 800AD – 1100AD, ach i gcás Dún Aonghasa ar a laghad, bhí daoine ag cuir fúthu ann siar sa Chré-umhaois, 1100BC. Tá ballaí arda na dúin dochreitde tiubh, agus is léiriú soiléir iad ar an buíon oibre suntasach a bhí faoi cheannas muintir an dúin.

Ar cósta thuaidh Árainn, tá na séipéil agus mainistreacha suaimhneacha suite. Lá den saol, bhí Cill Éinne beo le scolairí, cléirigh agus oilithrigh, agus bhí an oiread rath ar an mhainistir go raibh sé d’achmhainn acu cloigtheach ard a thógáil san 11ú aois. Sa lá atá inniu ann breathnaíonn Teampall Bheannáin, an séipéil is lú in Éireann más fíor é, amach ar chuan Cill Éinne, agus in aice láimhe tá Teaghlach Éinne leath-cheilte faoi gaineamh. Ar taobh thiar an oileán, is é an suíomh ar a dtugtar na Seacht dTeampaill sa lá atá inniu ann is tábhachtaí. Tá grúpa suntasach d’fhoirgnimh agus séipéil  meánaoiseacha le fáil ann, chomh maith le iarsmaí thrí ardchros mionsnoite.

D’fhág an 17ú céad a lorg ar Árainn chomh maith. Nuair a ghéill Gailleamh do forsaí Chromaill in 1650, cuireadh forsa saighdiúirí ar an oileán, agus tógadh Caisleán Aircín. Níor mhair go dtí an lá atá inniu ann ach balla amháin den caisleán ach is meabhrú sonrach dúinn é ar suímh stráitéiseach an oileán feadh béal Chuan na Gaillimhe.

A view back across the karst landscape of Inis Mór
A view back across the karst landscape of Inis Mór

Cloughoughter Castle

Perched on a man-made island in Lough Oughter, Co. Cavan, Cloughoughter Castle—also known as the Castle of Crannog O’Reilly—is a striking reminder of Ireland’s medieval heritage. Built in the 13th or early 14th century by the O’Reilly family, the castle’s strategic location on a crannog made it a formidable stronghold amidst the lakes and waterways of the region. Accessible only by boat, the castle’s remote setting offers visitors a sense of stepping back in time. When water levels are low, remnants of a causeway may be visible, hinting at the once-sophisticated means of access. Historical records recount numerous events at Cloughoughter, from sieges to political upheavals.   Notably, during the Irish Rebellion of 1641-1642, the renowned scholar and bishop William Bedell was imprisoned here.

Today, Cloughoughter remains a National Monument under the guardianship of the Office of Public Works (OPW). Recent restoration efforts, including the removal of overgrown ivy and old structures, have enhanced visibility of its historic fabric. Visitors should note that the site is unguided, requiring care and caution during exploration. As a powerful symbol of Ireland’s medieval past, Cloughoughter Castle continues to inspire those seeking to connect with Ireland’s rich heritage.

 

aerial panoramic of the small island the castle stands on, and the mainland across from it.
View of the Castle Credit Tourism Ireland

An Blascaod Mór

Is beag duine in Éirinn nách bhfuil eolas éigin acu faoi’n mBlascaod Mór, príomh-oileán na mBlascaodaí, ar chósta thiar Chorca Dhuibhne i gCiarraí. Mhair pobal uathúil ar an oileán go dtí 1953 agus tháining raidhse saothair litríochta as, ó na 1920idí amach – An tOileánach le Toms Ó Criomhhtain, Fiche Bliain ag Fás le Muiris o Súilleabháin agus Peig le Peig Sayers mar cheannródaithe orthu. Lean mórán leabhair eile iad, a fhágann go bhfuil cúntas cuimsitheach ar conas a mhair an pobal sin, ar chuma nách bhfuil le fáil in aon áit dá leithéid, ní amháin in Éirinn ach ar domhan. Deintear ceiliúradh an an oidhreacht shaibhir sin in Ionad an Bhlascaoid ar an míntír i nDún Chaoin.

Tá mórán taighde agus saothair foilsithe ag scoláirí iomráiteacha faoi ghnéithe do chultúr, béaloideas agus stair na mBlascaodaí fiú go dtí an lá inniu, as Gaeilge agus i dteangacha eile. Léiríonn  siad saibhreas agus tábhacht na hoidhreachta atá fágtha ag pobal an Bhlascaoid Mhóir.

Is fiú go mór turas a thabhait at an t-oileán féin. Tá áilleacht, uaisleacht agus uaigneas thar na bearta ag baint leis. Tá teacht ar an oileán ar sheirbhísí farantóireachta príobháideacha a ritheann ó Dhún Chaoin, ó Cheann Trá agus ó Dhaingean Uí Chúis idir an Aibreán agus Meán Fómhair – ag brath ar aimsir, gan amhras. Bíonn turasanna treóraithe á gcur ar fáil go laethúil ann ag treóraithe ó Ionad an Bhlascaoid, a thugann léargas ar bhaile an oileáin, scéalta na ndaoine agus na tithe inar mhair siad, sar a tréigeadh an áit i 1953.

Taobh amuigh den oidhreacht agus stair, is áit fíor-álainn an Blascaod Mór ina bhfuil radharcanna iontacha mórthimpeall. Tá siúlóidí den scoth ann a thugann éachtaint ar an tírdhreac agus muirdhreac ar gach taobh. Tá an áit mar chuid de Pháirc Náisiúnta na Mara a ainmníodh i 2024 agus tá tóir ar an mBlascaod Mór mar láthair chun na rónta glas agus éanlaithe mara atá flúirseach ann a fheiscint.

Tá mórán oibre idir lámha faoi láthair le go ndéanfaí caomhnú fad-téarmach ar an mBlascaod Mór agus chun áiseanna túirlingte a fheabhsú ionas an láthair fíor-thábhachtach seo a bheith cosanta agus ar fáil do chuairteoirí in sna blianta agus glúnta atá rómhainn. Is é is lú atá tuillte mar omós ag an bpobal eisceachtúil a mhair ann, do chuimhne na n-údair iomráiteacha agus saibhreas oidhteachta agus nádúrtha an Bhlascaoid. Faoi mar a dúirt an Criomhthanach, “mar ná beidh a leithéidí arís ann”.

Aerial View of the Blasket Centre on axis with the Great Blasket in background
Blasket Centre

Beneath the Grandeur

Visitors to Emo Court in County Laois are often struck by the elegance of James Gandon’s neoclassical design: the sweeping rotunda, the stately dining room, and the finely proportioned drawing rooms. Built for the Earls of Portarlington in the late 18th century, the house later passed through many chapters of ownership, including the Jesuits in the 20th century and, later, Major Cholmeley-Harrison, whose stewardship paved the way for its transfer to the Irish State. Today, under the care of the Office of Public Works, Emo Court continues to evolve. In 2025, our visitor experience was further enriched with the unveiling of the basement interiors—spaces long hidden from view that now complete the story of life both above and below stairs. More than a restoration, this project represents a balance of heritage and conservation, ensuring the past is preserved while allowing new generations to experience it afresh.

Morning Room at Emo Court
Morning Room

The basement of Emo Court was the unseen heart of the house. Here, servants once moved through kitchens, pantries, storage rooms, and passageways, supporting the grandeur above with quiet efficiency. Unlike the decorative reception rooms, these spaces were designed for function rather than display. Stone floors, functional corridors, and practical workrooms speak to a daily rhythm of labour and necessity.

By opening these interiors to visitors, the narrative of Emo Court is expanded. The splendour of the formal rooms is now set against the authenticity of the working quarters, offering a complete picture of how a great Irish country house operated.

The Kitchen at Emo Court
The Kitchen Credit Aaron Leavy

The presentation of the basement followed a programme of careful planning and restoration led by our OPW conservation architects. Their task was not only to conserve the fabric of the structure but also to interpret its story for the public. The result is an experience that retains the integrity of the spaces while ensuring accessibility and safety.

A key element in the project was the furnishing of the basement with period-appropriate objects that evoke its former life. Here, the assistance of Matt McNulty a long-standing supporter of Irish heritage and the proprietor of tourism and heritage management services,, was invaluable. By helping to acquire tools, utensils, and other domestic items, he ensured that the atmosphere of the quarters could be authentically recreated. This attention to detail brings substance to the architecture, allowing visitors to imagine the daily life of those who worked below stairs during the Victorian era.

a long dining table under an arched ceiling
Servant's quarters Credit Aaron Leavy

The basement is not only a historic space but also a living one. Over time, it has become a valuable habitat for bats, a protected species in Ireland. In preparing the area for public access, the OPW worked in close collaboration with the National Parks and Wildlife Service to ensure this habitat was safeguarded. Through sensitive environmental management and discreet adaptations, the project succeeded in balancing heritage presentation with ecological responsibility.

This partnership demonstrates how cultural and natural heritage can coexist, allowing the house to be appreciated as both a monument of human endeavour and a sanctuary for wildlife.

The unveiling of the basement interiors enriches the visitor journey through Emo Court. Above stairs, guests encounter the artistry of Gandon’s vision and the history of aristocratic and later custodianship. Below stairs, they discover the spaces of work, service, and resilience—rooms that once sustained the grandeur on display above.

Together, these contrasting worlds tell a more nuanced story of Emo Court: a house of splendour built upon foundations of labour, care, and quiet industry. The restoration ensures that both sides of this history are honoured, offering visitors not only beauty but understanding.

Scattery Island Furniture

The furniture in the restored cottages is based on the layout and type of furniture in documentation about Scattery Island and drawings and photographs from archive sources respectively. Don Scanlan’s book about Scattery Island provided details of the type and layout of furniture in the cottages including a kitchen table and set of chairs, a dresser against the internal wall opposite the main fireplace and a settle against the rear wall. Drawings of cottages around Ireland in the 1940s from the Irish Folklife Collection in the National Museum of Ireland included floor plans, which also provided information showing typical furniture layouts of similar direct-entry cottages around Ireland.

view of scattery island from the pier
Scattery Island from the pier Credit Ronan Maguire

All of the furniture details in the houses are based on details from drawings in the Irish Folklife Collection in the National Museum of Ireland, furniture from Clare and the surrounding counties, furniture in publications and furniture from the Museum of Country Life in Castlebar.

The furniture throughout ‘The Street’ consists of replica furniture made in White Deal by OPW Carpenters in Athenry with a set of kitchen chairs and children’s chairs from local suppliers. All of the dressers, settles, benches and a set of kitchen chairs were made by OPW Carpenters and apprentices. Due to the exposed location of the buildings on the island, and in order to prevent damage from dampness to original furniture, OPW Carpenters made replica furniture. The replica furniture also allows visitors to sit down on a guided tour or self-guided tour.

table and chairs on display in a dining room setting
McMahon's House Credit OPW

Local residents’ recollections of the Post Office at the northern end of ‘The Street’ have indicated that the layout was not based on a typical Post Office layout. The Post Office desk is based on furniture from a post office in a similar type of cottage in the Ulster American Folk Park in Omagh, with individual compartments for each house.

writing desk and bench in red
Post Office Credit OPW

McMahon’s House at the centre of ‘The Street’ contains a settle based on the settle in the Loop Head Farmhouse in Bunratty Folk Park and a dresser based on an example from the Irish Folklife Collection with inset doors and drawers. Brennan’s House at the southern end of ‘The Street’ contains a low settle based on an example from the Irish Folklife Collection and a dresser based on a dresser from Co. Clare with inset doors and partially overlaid drawers. The low settle allows uninterrupted light to enter the house through the rear window, a feature on many of the Scattery houses.

The details vary between different items of each type of furniture, all of which are based on details in drawings and photographs of original furniture. Typical details vary and include tongue-and-groove boards to stop-chamfers and raised panels on settles and dressers. Details also include corbels, brackets, simple plain moulded cornices and simple plain moulded skirting boards on dressers. Brennan’s house and McMahon’s house contain different tables and chairs based on furniture from Clare and the neighbouring counties.

a blue sideboard beside an open door
Brennan's House Credit OPW

In order to mitigate the impact of the exposed location of the island on the furniture and to protect the furniture from the effects of dampness, the dressers and settles were raised slightly off the ground. Details were based on the sledge feet on traditional vernacular furniture, a detail also used to protect the base of furniture against water damage and dampness.

The furniture was painted in different colours based on images of furniture in publications by Claudia Kinmonth and furniture from the Museum of Country Life in Castlebar. Colours vary from house to house and include red, blue and grey. All furniture was painted throughout, in order to protect it.

Similar typical vernacular details are used for other features in the restored houses, all of which will be made by OPW Carpenters. The new desk in the visitor centre is based on similar details to the houses with simple tongue-and-groove boards and simple plain moulded skirting boards. The electrical board in each house will be enclosed by a press made of tongue-and-groove boards based on fireside presses in traditional cottages.

It is proposed to add to the furniture over time.  OPW carpenters will make additional items of furniture including additional presses and bedroom furniture, all based on traditional vernacular furniture including further local examples.

 

Acknowledgements:

Terri Sweeney Meade, APA; Michèle O’Dea, Senior Architect; Frank Geraghty, District Works Manager; Michael Heraghty, Foreman; Tom Blunnie, General Operative/Skipper; Declan Furey, Carpenter; Kevin Skehill, Carpenter; Michael Cassidy, Apprentice Carpenter; National Museum of Ireland

Patrick: The Saint of Legend

Patrick, whose real name is believed to be Maewyn Succat, was born in Roman Britain. At the age of sixteen he was enslaved for six years in Ireland, captured by the forces of the High King, Niall of the Nine Hostages. Patrick eventually escaped, and returned home to his family, only for him to have a vision that prompted his return to Ireland to spread Christianity to the Pagan population. He trained in Europe, and returned to Ireland as a bishop, ready to convert the people of Ireland.

As a Patron Saint of Ireland Patrick is known and celebrated all over the world on March 17. While he is credited with bringing Christianity to Ireland, there is so much more to his story. Saint Patrick is a multi-faceted figure who, much like Brigit, who is also a Patron Saint, straddles between the Christianised Ireland and its Pagan Mythology.

 

Upon arriving back in Ireland, Patrick went to Tara, the seat of the High King Laoghaire, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages. It was here that Patrick celebrated Easter on the same day as Beltaine, the summer festival associated with Celtic Pagan tradition. Beltaine was often marked with the lighting of a fire, an honour that fell to the chief druid, who would light the first fire on the Hill of Tara. However, Patrick beat them to it, lighting the paschal fire of Easter on the Hill of Slane, enraging the High King of Tara at his disrespect at tradition, despite the fact that his marking of the Christian festival was exactly the same as that of the Pagan festival. Laoghaire passed a sentence of death on Patrick, who, instead of fearing his punishment, scolded the High King for his Pagan worshipping. Though Patrick was unable to convert Laoghaire (according to some sources), he did walk away with his life and manage to convert many within the High King’s court.

a saint patrick backdropped by the clouds
Saint Patrick statue Credit Fáilte Ireland

Laoghaire was not the only person Patrick did not manage to convert to Christianity. Within Irish mythology, there is a story of a conversation held between Patrick and Oisín of Tír na nÓg known as “The Arguments”. Upon returning from Tír na nÓg, Oisín finds Ireland much changed. After falling from his horse and becoming an old man, Oisín is taken in by Patrick. Oisín regales him with stories of Fionn MacCumhaill and the Fianna, but feels lost and alone without them now. While Patrick tells Oisín about Heaven and his God, Oisín refuses to convert and argues that the Pagan ways are still better and more noble.

design of Oisín and Niamh on a horse riding through the water
Oisín and Niamh design by Jim Fitzpatrick

Patrick did manage to convert the King of Munster, Angus Mac Natfráich, at the Rock of Cashel, who did not cry out upon being accidentally punctured in the foot by Patrick’s crozier. Apparently, Angus thought it was part of the baptism process.

A castle stands on top of a rocky, grassy cliff reaching towards the sky
The Rock of Cashel Credit Waterford County Council

Likely the most well-known story associated with Patrick is of him banishing the snakes from Ireland. This famous story is often viewed as his success at driving Paganism out of Ireland, and yet it is entrenched in Irish Paganism. According to myth, it is said that Patrick was the one to banish the great snake-monster, Caoránach; while other versions claim he killed her in Lough Derg, turning the water red with her blood, hence the name (Derg/Dearg = red).

design of saint patrick with his hand outstretched and snakes at his feet
Saint Patrick design by Jim Fitzpatrick

Patrick is said to have been looked after by Brigit in his final days, and buried in Downpatrick, where Brigit was buried when she died. Ireland’s third patron saint, Columcille, is also said to be buried alongside them.

“In Down, three saints one grave do fill: Patrick, Brigid and Columcille”.

Saint Patrick has a long-lived legacy within Ireland, both within history and mythology, so it is no surprise that many of his stories have reached legendary status.

 

Sources:

Gregory, Augusta. Gods and Fighting Men, 1904.

Heaney, Marie. Over Nine Waves: A Book of Irish Legends, 1995.

Mackillop, James. A Dictionary of Celtic Mythology, 2004.

Women involved in Custom House history

At the Custom House Visitor Centre, we commemorate the history of the building and its relevance to contemporary Ireland. This history can be male-centric. Women’s history, as it is labelled, is often omitted from the greater, accepted narrative of Ireland. This is a symptom of a much larger issue. To help address this issue, we have researched some of the women who have contributed to the history of our building and of Ireland. This research has since been turned into a specialised tour which we can now offer to visiting groups.

 

Born 1858, Beatrice Webb was a social reformer, feminist, and historian. She produced a nine-volume history of English Local Government. She served as commissioner for the Royal Commission on the Poor Laws. In 1908, she attended a hearing at the Custom House, before which she toured the workhouses and met a deputation, from the Irish Workhouse Association and the Irish Women’s Suffrage and Local Government Association. Under their influence, Webb questioned an inspector of the Local Government Board at the hearing. The inspector claimed that female representation in Local Government was satisfactory. Suffice to say, the issue of female local representation was deemed unimportant and did not figure in the subsequent report.

side-profile image of a woman in 19th century dress
Beatrice Webb Credit Wikipedia

Ann ‘Nancy’ Wyse Power was born in 1889, to her politically active mother Jennie. She joined the Gaelic League in 1901. She graduated in 1912 from UCD with a First-Class Honours BA in Celtic Studies.

She became a member of Cumann na mBan in 1915, and took an active part in the Rising, joining the GPO garrison. From 1917, she was one of Cumann na mBan’s two honorary secretaries, and was instrumental to its post-Rising revitalisation – by 1920, the Cumann numbered 500 branches and 20,000 members.

Pre 1922, she was recruited to Dáil Éireann’s Foreign Service, and travelled to Berlin to set up an office to promote Irish interests. In 1923 she joined the Department of Industry and Commerce. In 1932, she became Seán T. O’Kelly’s private secretary in the Department of Local Government and Public Health. She went on to become principal officer in the civil service, becoming one of the first women to do so.

Nancy resented the inferior status of women within the Irish civil service, tracing such back to the British civil service. She argued, to the Brennan Commission, that women were kept from their male counterparts, thus limiting their prospects. It is worth mentioning that Nancy was never married and that if she was the marriage bar would have drastically limited her career options and greatly reduced her achievements.

group image of mainly women, and a few men, gathered behind a large table for a photograph
Group Photograph celebrating the release of Kathleen Clarke from prison. Nancy is situated in the bottom right corner. Courtesy of Kilmainham Gaol Archives

In 1912, Kathleen ‘Kay’ Emerson attacked the Custom House, smashing its windows. Emerson was a campaigner for women’s suffrage, and found herself aggravated by the rejection of the Snowden Amendment to the Home Rule Bill, which could have provided such. In the court proceedings regarding the act, Emerson said that she broke the windows because she would be ashamed not to, and that nothing short of a bomb would adequately express her feelings. As consequence, and her refusal to pay a fine, she was imprisoned in Mountjoy. She went on hunger strike, only to be released when her fine was paid anonymously.

On marrying, Emerson gave up her revolutionary ways. However, she was soon reactivated and took part in the broader movement against de Valera’s 1937 constitutional provisions on the status of women.

sepia image of a woman sitting down looking at the camera in 20th century dress
Kathleen Emerson Credit National Library of Ireland

In 1932, Eileen Desmond was born to a fisherman and a seamstress. She was educated at the Convent of Mercy and was one of two girls in her class to sit her leaving certificate.

Aged seventeen, she took her first role in the civil service, as part of the Department of Posts and Telegraphs. In 1955, she married Labour TD Daniel Desmond. Due to the marriage bar in the civil service, Eileen had to give up her job, which led her to take up work assisting her husband.

In 1965 she successfully competed in a by-election for a seat vacated by her deceased husband, and succeeded him on Cork County Council. She was the second female Labour TD, and one of the youngest members of the seventeenth Dáil Éireann and one of only five women elected. She ran unsuccessfully for the nineteenth Dáil, with some concluding that she lost her seat because of a ‘militantly feminist’ speech she gave on television. Eileen contested this, positing that her loss was due to the re-drawing of constituency boundaries. She was re-elected to the twentieth and twenty-first Dáilí, and, in 1979, to the European Parliament.

From 1981 to 1982, she was Minister for Health and Social Welfare of the twenty-second Dáil, making her the first woman to attain a senior cabinet position.

black and white image of a woman looking into the camera
Portrait of MEP Eileen Desmond Credit European Union - EP

We have barely scratched the surface when it comes to the ‘women’s history’ of Ireland, and so there is still a significant amount of work to be done. Perhaps we might inspire others to action and the uncovering of figures and facts that have been neglected up to this point. At the very least, we aim to update our display to permanently feature the stories of these women and affirm their place in history.

Brigit: The Goddess and The Saint

If there is one figure in Irish lore that has risen from the ashes of obscurity in recent years, it is Brigit, a figure representing the duality of both Goddess and Saint. In the seasonal calendar, February 1st marks Imbolc, a pre-Christian festival that indicated the beginning of Spring and was often associated with Brigit, or Bríg, the Goddess of Fire. In the Christian calendar, the 1st marks the feast day of the Patron Saint Brigit, who is also associated with fire and protection. These dual figures are one and the same, a mirror image, with one emerging from the foundations of the other.

 

As the pre-Christian representation, the Goddess version of Brigit is the precursor to the Saint. Brigit was known as a triple goddess, connected with healing, smith-craft and poetry, and was known as the ‘Exalted One’. She was also one of three daughters of the Dagda, a god of the Tuatha Dé Danann – a powerful and magical people, who are later referred to as the Sídhe (faeries) when they retreat underground. Despite being a well-known figure today, especially through festivals held in Dublin and Louth, there is very little noted of Brigit within our mythology. Brigit is really only mentioned, briefly, during the story of the Second Battle of Moytura when she mourns the death of her son, Ruadán.

“And then Brigit came and keened her son with shrieking and with crying”

"Gods and Fighting Men" - Lady Augusta Gregory

This moment is significant as the first keening in Ireland. It could be argued that the Goddess was a predecessor to the Banshee, who is known to keen or wail when death is near.

colour print of Brigit by Jim Fitzpatrick
Bríd Design Credit Jim Fitzpatrick

Brigit, the Saint, much like the Goddess, is often associated with three things: fertility, abundance and protection. She was born in the middle of the 5th century; she lived, as a child, with a druid, and drank the milk of Otherworld cows – even within the Christianised version of Brigit there are elements of mythology weaved through her story. Fire became a symbol associated with Brigit after a bishop came across her praying in a small church she had founded, with a fire appearing and growing around her and the building. Legend has it that twenty nuns (Brigit being one) would guard the fire that had continued to burn for 500 years, even after Brigit’s death. The Goddess’ connection to fire may seem more tenuous than that of the Saint, however the Goddess Brigit is said to represent fire’s transformative properties through her power of healing.

There are a number of symbols that evoke the memory of Saint Brigit, beyond that of fire, including the cross of rushes, and a cloak. It is said that Brigit fashioned a cross from rushes that were on the floor so that she could convert a man to Christianity on his deathbed.

As for the cloak, Brigit used this as a means of getting what she was promised by a King of Leinster. Brigit had founded a religious house in Kildare, and as her community grew she requested land from the king in order to build a monastery. He agreed, only to renege soon after. Frustrated at his constant stalling, Brigit finally asked him to at least let her have as much land as her cloak would cover. Laughing at the meagre size of her cloak, the king conceded. Four nuns then picked up the corners and proceeded to run the four directions of the compass, continuing to cover the land until the king begged Brigit to stop, and gave her what was promised.

a mural depicting both sides of Brigit - the saint and goddess.
Mural of Brigit Credit Martin McElligott

Today, there are many sites across Ireland that bear Saint Brigit’s name and evoke the stories that she is remembered for on February 1st. Two of these sites come under OPW care: Tully Church at the foot of the Dublin Mountains has Brigit as its Patron Saint; while Clare Island Abbey, off the coast of Mayo, is also officially known as St. Brigit’s Abbey. Meanwhile, Imbolc is affiliated with the Goddess Brigit, and is known as a cross-quarter day in which the sunlight reflects into the passage chambers of Cairn L at Loughcrew and the Mound of Hostages at the Hill of Tara.

aerial view of the circular markings at the Hill of Tara
Hill of Tara Credit Ken Williams

The original Pagan tales act as the core on which to build the story of the later Christian figures; the supernatural elements of the Patron Saint’s life hark back to her mythological doppelganger. Their associations with fire, their raising by druids, their remembrance on the same day all ties these two women together, despite their veneration by people of different beliefs. The blending of one’s story with the other led to the Goddess entering the shadows to pave the way for the Saint. Now the Saint and her stories are more widely known and celebrated than that of the Goddess – certainly within Irish myth. Yet, without the Goddess would the Saint exist?

 

Sources:

Brennan, Martin. The Stones of Time: Calendars, Sundials, and Stone Chambers of Ancient Ireland, 1994.

Britannica.com

Gregory, Augusta. Gods and Fighting Men, 1904.

Heaney, Marie. Over Nine Waves: A Book of Irish Legends, 1995.

Mackillop, James. A Dictionary of Celtic Mythology, 2004.

MacLeod, Sharon Paice. Celtic Myth and Religion: a study of traditional belief, with newly translated prayers, poems, and songs, 2012.

maps.arcgis.com – Historic Environment Viewer

Massey, Eithne. The Turning of the Year: Lore and Legends of the Irish Seasons, 2021.

Heritage Card

Unlimited access to our heritage

Order your Heritage Card today!

Join our mailing list

Are you happy to receive marketing material via email from Heritage Ireland

Subscribe